Thursday, July 2, 2015

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées for Only Watch 2015




VACHERON CONSTANTIN Métiers d’Art Técaniques Ajourées for ONLY WATCH 2015

Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées for Only Watch 2015
When engraving morphs into sculpture

At the occasion of the charity event Only Watch 2015 that will take place on November 7th in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin renews its support with a unique Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées timepiece, beautified by an enamelled red ring. This creation links two worlds that evolved in similar ways in the late 19th century: architecture and watchmaking. Based on one of the stellar in-house movements, Calibre 4400, this sculptural work with its airy, transparent and finely arched construction exalting the art of openworking vividly evokes the large European railway stations symbolising the golden age of the industrial revolution. 

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The engraver’s technique is reinvented to resemble that of the sculptor, revealing fascinating light effects conveyed through a three-dimensional architecture enhanced by another artistic craft: that of Grand Feu enamelling.

An historical quest
While the first entirely openworked Vacheron Constantin calibre appeared in 1924, the Manufacture was a pioneer in this field of stylistic research, since the first watch produced by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 already featured an openworked and engraved balance-cock. Over the following years, the Manufacture relentlessly pursued this quest for mechanical transparency, as it produced movements comprising ever more finely fashioned components. After pocket-watches, it began producing openworked movements for wristwatches as of the 1960s, constantly pushing the boundaries of its art by openworking such complicated calibres as minute repeaters, perpetual calendar and tourbillons – including in ultra-thin variations.

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Time has passed, yet the thirst for creative challenges remains as strong as ever. Witness the new release by the Manufacture of a splendid mechanical work evoking the large glass domed roofs of historical railway stations, supported by Gothic-inspired ribbed vaults. This impressive artistry is expressed through stunning hand-engraved work resembling the technique of sculpture and orchestrated by a symphony of curves forming a three-dimensional architecture literally flooded with light.

New milestones in the art of engraving
Openworking a movement is a demanding art, since it involves hollowing out the mechanical parts as much as possible, while being careful not to impair the smooth running of the watch. Watchmakers generally start with a solid existing calibre on which they undertake a lengthy process involving conceptualisation, design and modelling, in order to weave the magic of openworking. This unique piece Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées is no exception to this rule, since it features the manually-wound openworked Calibre 4400SQ.

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It took several hundreds of hours to achieve the perfect balance between airy aesthetic appeal and optimal functionality. The watchmakers and artisans of the Manufacture compounded the already impressive feat of removing almost half the material compared with the solid Calibre 4400 by addressing another challenge: that of transforming the new movement into an authentic three-dimensional architectural work expressing striking light and shadow effects. To achieve this, they have laid new milestones in the age-old art of hand engraving.

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Rather than using a bocfil or tiny handsaw to cut out the smooth surface of the mainplate and bridges before drawing them out with a file and chamfering them, the engraving artisans have carefully chased the parts around their entire circumference so as to create a true sculpture with its own volume and depth. Inspired by the ribbed vaults of late 19th century railway stations, they have meticulously applied their burins to creating delicate arches on the calibre in a fascinating architecture built around curves.

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These rounded shapes are a complete change from the straight lines of classic openworked movements, and imply an even more complex process of chamfering and hand-drawing. Amid a clever interlacing pattern of interior angles that only the human hand is capable of creating, the polished zones catch the light, while the matt finish of the hand-drawn surfaces further heighten the contrast with the radiance of the polished areas. The subtle alchemist’s blend of these hand-crafted finishes is further exalted by the relief effect of the engraved vaults in a process involving over three days of work for a single calibre and endowing it with unique character.

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When one artistic craft transcends another
A contemporary reinterpretation of the ancestral art of hand engraving, the finely openworked mechanism of the Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées model is further ennobled by another artistic craft in which the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin has excelled since its origins: Grand Feu enamelling. Once again demonstrating the full extent of their expertise, the in-house enamelling artisans have created a ring topping the calibre by dint of meticulous work calling for extreme virtuosity, since the circular shape of the ring to be enamelled implies substantial risks of distortion. This perilous exercise thus brilliantly performed was compounded by a further difficulty: that of achieving one of the shades most difficult to create with Grand Feu enamel: a deep red paying tribute to the Principality of Monaco. To render the vivid beauty of this red hue, the master enamellist had to create a perfectly smooth and uniform surface so as to avoid the appearance of any undesirable bubbles during the successive firings of the enamel.

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The Grand Feu enamelled ring is accentuated by Roman numerals evoking those of the central clocks in the large railway stations of late 19th century Europe, thereby forming a visible connection with the architectural motifs engraved on the calibre. Furthermore, the openworked ONLY WATCH logo on the ring at 3 o’clock celebrates this charity event organized by the MONACO YACHT SHOW, PHILLIPS’ watch department and the MONACO ASSOCIATION AGAINST MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY.

A watch bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva
While the openworked architecture of Calibre 4400SQ reveals a wealth of fascinating hand-engraved work, it should in no way eclipse the technical performances of this splendid mechanism. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the movement displays remarkable precision and offers an impressive 65-hour power reserve that is extremely user-friendly for a hand-wound calibre.


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Nonetheless, the mechanical aspects alone are not the only features to meet the highest standards of Fine Watchmaking, since the entire model is certified by the Hallmark of Geneva – a guarantee of quality, provenance, craftsmanship and durability appplying to the watch as a whole and providing the firm assurance of owning a timepiece that is exceptional in every way.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées

Reference:  82020/000G-B143
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
 
Unique piece for ONLY WATCH2015” available in Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Caliber:  4400SQ
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
28.60 mm (12 ’’’ ½) diameter
2.80 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours power reserve
4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)
127 components
21 jewels
Hand-engraved openworked caliber on front and back 
Indications: 
Hours, minutes
Case: 
18K white gold
40 mm diameter, 7.50 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters) 
Dial: 
Red Grand Feu opaque enamelled external ring
Openworked Roman numerals on an 18K gold ring
ONLY WATCH” openworked on the 18K gold ring, at 3 o’clock
Strap: 
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner
shell, stitched-tip, large square scales 
Clasp: 
18K white gold buckle
Half Maltese cross-shaped 
Accessory: 
Delivered with a magnifying glass

Unique piece for ONLY WATCH2015” and “N°1/1” engraved on the back of the timepiece

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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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www.facebook.com - Vacheron Constantin 
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www.Vacheron-Constantin.com

KERBEDANZ – KOI Limited Edition


KERBEDANZ KOЇ Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

KERBEDANZ gave to this model the emblematic figure of the famous fish Koi, one of the vegetarian sub-species of carp, which has become a powerful symbol in the Far Eastern cultures.

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Symbol of life, fecundity and virility for people, but also of wealth, the Koi carps symbolize more particularly the strength and perseverance as they move against the current of rivers and waterfalls of Japan and Asia. As their Chinese name is synonymous with the word "abundance", their image is often used in wishes of wealth and prosperity.

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Contrary to what one might think, Koi carp originates neither from Japan nor from China. The oldest form of nishikigoï called magoï, was black and lived in the Black Sea, the Caspian, Aral and Azov seas. The first writings about it appeared in China, around 500 BC.

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According to Chinese legend, the Yellow River Carp, after ascending the river, would fly to the sky turning into dragon. This legend originates from Koi-Nobori, in Japan, which means, ventilators in shape of Koi, used on the children's day, May 5. They were intended to encourage boys to be strong and brave.

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The Koi carps have an important place in Japanese culture as well as in Southeast Asia, where they embody a symbol of love and virility. Their success has spread everywhere, where these fishes were exported. Being very calm, the Koi carps bring beauty and serenity in a basin and decorate the Japanese gardens.

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The representations of Carp Koi are multiple in painting and drawing, as well as in tattoo. It is represented swimming against the current. It embodies in the eyes of those who decide to engrave it on their bodies, the strongest symbol of courage, but it can also symbolize the serenity quest.

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Mainly vegetarian, the Koi carp is not a predator, despite its big size, and wears different colors: red, white, yellow, black, etc. Some colored varieties are highly prized by collectors and can cost huge sums while they are barely two years old!

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Brand

A name that signifies leader and precursor is worthy of unique personalities. A watch worthy of unique personalities needs to have sublime qualities. This is how Kerbedanz was created as a perfect marriage of watch-making excellence, a unique philosophical concept and a highly creative visual design.
The name KERBEDANZ derives from the patronymic of the Brand’s founding President Tigran Karabedyan.

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 President Tigran Karabedyan

Paying a tribute to his ancestor, he gives to his company the name KERBEDANZ which means “the heirs of Karabed” (Karabed meaning Precursor/Leader), both qualifiers being perfectly adapted to KERBEDANZ which is a precursor with its concept of specific products’ value. By the way, Kerbedanz appears as a Leader regarding its very unique watch models - or very limited series - dedicated to a very exclusive clientele well known in their activities.
      
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Chief Design Officer Aram Petrosyan


History

The ancestor of Tigran Karabedyan was a renowned goldsmith with wonderful skills to work the metal. He had acquired a great notoriety in the entire region where he exercised his art and was regularly sought to repair failing clocks as well. His fame is not only because of his competence. Indeed he was a good man, humble, generous, devoted to his family, and faithful to his friends. His highly professional skills and knowledge gave him not only a comfortable life but also the consideration and the respect of his surroundings.
Anxious to transfer the legacy of his ancestor and in the respect for the ethical values which had marked his life and works, Tigran Karabedyan decides to create his own watch brand and to locate it in Switzerland, in the city of Neuchâtel, the ancestral cradle of the Swiss watch industry.
The KERBEDANZ watches have a dual heritage: the know-how of the ancestral watchmaking and the ethic value cultivated by a man fair and straight, highly self-demanding in his professional commitment and in his life as well.
Through its product policy - concept, manufacturing and high quality finishing - the excellence of its network and overall the respect dedicated to its Clients, KERBEDANZ will fully reflect these ethical values.

Ethics

The KERBEDANZ watches therefore have a dual heritage: the abilities and the centuries-old tradition of Swiss luxury watchmaking and the ethical values ​​that have accompanied a good and righteous man during his whole life, who was attached to the quality and accuracy of his work as to  respect the rules of life.

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Chief Design Officer Aram Petrosyan


KERBEDANZ impregnated with the fundamental ethical values​​, base its principles on the respect of its customers and watches over to offer products of  high quality and a distribution that is as selective as exclusive.

Philosophy
Giving sense to beauty

 The KERBEDANZ brand has the mission to interpret the multiple universe of human thought as creating exceptional watches by the symbolic content they contain. Through these exceptional watches, KERBEDANZ wants to establish a special relationship with the customers that are named "leaders." These same leaders and precursors, by their actions and charisma, participate in their respective fields to the creation and expansion of the universe of human thought.
By merging the "form and substance" KERBEDANZ carries in his creations perfect union between a philosophical or esthetic symbolism and its cultural translation.
It is this unique creative concept that KERBEDANZ applies to the design of its very exclusive watches, sometimes very evocative or more discrete, mysterious or even subliminal depending on the nature of the subject under discussion. The personalization of the watch can be so secret that its evocation is only comprehensible to its owner.

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 Chief Design Officer Aram Petrosyan


A World of Symbols

The universe of human thought is not only made ​​of the philosophical and cultural heritage of mankind since ancient times, but it is continually adding new discoveries and theories in such various areas as science, history, philosophy, art and everything related to ethical values ​​that elevate human dignity and give its own value to every civilization and every culture.
To create valuables corresponding to contemporary design, capable of transmitting strong emotions and messages: myths and symbols from the depths of time or exciting visions of a future projection - this is the challenge that KERBEDANZ was sent giving priority in terms of product to the pursuit of excellence, uniqueness, reliability, elegance and innovation at the service of its customers.

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Technical Specifications

Model: KERBEDANZ – KOI Tourbillon
14 numbered Piece

MOVEMENT
Mechanical hand-wound Tourbillon KRB-02 caliber, 

Manufactured by Technotime, decorated by Kerbedanz and
Concepto.
19 jewels, 21’600 vib/h, 72-hour power reserve, 168 components,
tourbillon cage with 80 components and a weight of 0.42g.
Tourbillon cage placed between 4 and 5 o’clock.
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, tourbillon.
CASE
18K white gold, 46 mm diameter. 

Designed and manufactured by KERBEDANZ
Sapphire glass and case back with anti-reflective treatment.
Water-resistant to 5 atm. 

The crown is situated in the north-east, between 1 and 2 o’clock.
DIAL
Massive white gold, 

Bas-relief with Koï figure. Designed,
manufactured and hand decorated  by KERBEDANZ.
STRAP
Alligator mississippiensis with
18K white gold  folding clasp with a special Kerbedanz design.
LIMITED EDITION
14 numbered pieces.


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    Kerbedanz SA
    Rue des Moulins 51,
    2000 Neuchâtel, Switzerland
    info@kerbedanz.com   
    + 41 32 725 18 10
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Kerbedanz.com