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Born from a pioneering spirit in 2001, and
completely redesigned in 2013 to bring it into line with the seafaring
theme cherished by Ulysse Nardin, the Freak Cruiser is hoisting the
mainsail and heading for blue ocean waters. As spectacular as ever with
its flying “Carrousel-Tourbillon” and its Dual Ulysse escapement in
silicon, this exceptional timepiece now wears its bezel, rotating lower
bridge and rotating upper bridge in deep aquatic colors. Like an old
sea-dog, it has acquired the name Blue Cruiser on its voyages.
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Never before has a watch accomplished such a conceptual and
technological leap forward for watchmaking – a feat that remains
unrivalled even today. Stripped of its dial and hands, the Blue Cruiser
is designed so that the movement revolves on itself.
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Connected to the
center of this incredible ship, the rotating lower bridge indicates the
hours, while the upper bridge, in the form of a skeletonized ship's
anchor – bearing the gear train, the balance spring and the exclusive
Dual Ulysse silicon escapement – shows the minutes.
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Named the flying
Carrousel-Tourbillon, this system which defies the imagination is
entirely free floating, as it no longer includes the center pin which in
previous incarnations was stowed with the sapphire crystal to support
the entire structure.
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The Blue Cruiser is also unusual in the way it is operated. Stripped
of a crown and push-pieces, it is set using the rotating bezel, in both
directions. As for winding the barrel – designed to offer a power
reserve of more than seven days – this is done using the rear bezel
mounted on ball bearings. These two elements – the front and lower
bezels – are thus an integral part of this breathtaking manual-wind
movement, visible through the open back.
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In 18 ct white or rose gold, this avant-garde vessel measures a
respectable 45 mm in diameter, a dimension that appeals rather than
repels. Very elegant mounted on a blue or brown alligator strap with
deployment clasp, the Blue Cruiser is, by its very nature, suited to
voyages of all kinds.
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The X-TREM-1 Ultimate watchmaking by Christophe Claret
X-TREM-1, the first of a new generation of timepieces, represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.
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X for eXperimental T for Time R for Research E for Engineering M for Mechanism
X-TREM. The concept certainly deserves its name. It expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain.
The Manufacture from Le Locle presents the first creation in a new
X-TREM collection that will be exceptional in all ways. X-TREM-1
features a tourbillon timepiece and uses magnetic fields to indicate the
hours and minutes.
The challenge is bold and some might say a little crazy:
How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field –
the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch?
That is what purists are liable to say. And yet Christophe Claret has
done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres –
hollowed to make them lighter – encased within two sapphire tubes placed
to the right and left of the caseband, are controlled by precision
magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables. The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema
nanofibres all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel,
capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire
thread is thinner than a human hair (4 hundredths of a mm in diameter).
The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret
on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to six years of
operation. The spheres have no mechanical connection with the
movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating
outstanding horological magic.
“We developed this technology with the School of Business and
Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by
Professor Besson,” explains Christophe Claret. “What’s more, the
magnetic fields have been focused so that they have no effect whatsoever
on the mechanisms – apart from the task assigned to them, which is to
help display the time in a quite incredible and original way.”
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The initial project, which was in fact very different from the one now
being presented, was proposed by two Neuchâtel watchmakers, Frédéric
Richard and Olivier Randin, to Christophe Claret – who decided to
acquire the rights and patent.
The “floating” sphere display system of the X-TREM-1 is not the only
technical feat involved. The entire construction and finishing of this
timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by
Christophe
Claret.
Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate
and the bridges. A determination to enhance ergonomics and reduce
volumes guided the designer in his choices. This is indeed a first for
such a complex calibre, especially one made in titanium. The case is
composed of titanium and white or red gold, or platinum, and produced in
limited series of eight per model. The flying tourbillon is fitted with
double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined
at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to
the wearer.
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The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels – a
necessity in this case, since they enable the use of a sophisticated
display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the
accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon,
the second for the hours and minutes. The timing gear train (first
barrel) is regulated by the tourbillon; while the display gear train is
regulated by a special escapement which picks up the relevant
information from the timing gear train. The latter is composed of a
lever that releases a tooth of the pallet-wheel of the display gear
train every 25 seconds, which is is driven by a cam connected to the
timing gear train. When one of the gear trains reaches the end of the
power reserve of its respective barrel, the escapement interrupts the
running of its neighbour. This conception offers an important advantage
in that the tourbillon and display gear trains are independent, thus
avoiding disturbances, optimising power reserve and endowing the watch
with excellent precision.
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But that’s not all. For Christophe Claret, every technical innovation
must be validated and approved, which is why each movement is hand
assembled from start to finish by the same watchmaker who ensures its
technical and aesthetic qualities. At the end of the process, the
timepiece undergoes a stringent set of internal testing in the THF (Test
Homologation Fiabilité) workshop, after which it earns a certificate
guaranteeing its quality and precision.
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The underlying haute horlogerie criteria governing all
activities conducted within the Manufacture also apply to the finishing
and the exterior of the timepiece: components are hand-bevelled, flanks
are straight-grained, sinks on solid gears are polished and the spokes
on open-worked gears are bevelled and polished, screw heads are
mirror-polished, and cams, bridges and the tourbillon cage are
mirror-polished on the visible side. Christophe Claret devotes
particular care to the finishing of each component, which is designed to
ensure the overall harmony and aesthetic coherence of the model.
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Christophe Claret considers the creation of each object as a collective challenge that takes shape by dint of passion and perseverance, along with a significant measure of emotions and dreams. He is never happy just to redo something that has already been done. The brand is resolutely dedicated to technological innovation and never hesitates to venture off the beaten track in its quest to offer unprecedented ways of reading the time.
CALIBRE FLY11: Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm Number of parts: 419 Number of jewels: 64 Power reserve: 50+ hours Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration. Tourbillon:
Escapement: Swiss lever type
Oscillation frequency of the balance: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission Functions:
Mystery hours and minutes displayed on each side of the case, with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes - The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread. Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Mechanical, hand-wound movement
Open barrel acts as movement state-of-wind indicator: when the movement is fully wound the spring is centered in the barrel Mainplate:
Curvex with sides inclined at 30° angle
Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
Open-worked ratchet and wheel Distinctive features:
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Fine adjustment system for the retrograde display return-spring EXTERIOR: Case:
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Material:
Polished white gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
Polished rose gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
Platinum/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium Hour and minute displays:
Hours and minutes are indicated by two 4mm-diameter hollowed spheres weighing 0.100 grams that move past sapphire scales marked with thin Super-LumiNova graduations beneath the sapphire Pusher: Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock Bows: Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback Strap: Black hand-sewn alligator leather or rubber-touch leather fitted with an innovative two-screw fastening system that facilitates strap change and avoids damaging the case Buckle: Titanium folding clasp with gold buckle Distinctive features: Super-LumiNova along the side of the caseband enables time reading in the dark Number of watches: Each version is issued in a limited edition of eight pieces