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The mid-20th century witnessed the invention of the regulator, serving
to balance the pressure between the diver’s lungs and the compressed air
reserves. This invention boosted the spread of scuba diving and the
emergence of instruments designed to accompany sports enthusiasts.
Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...BIGFOTO
In
1961, Vulcain presented one of the first diver’s watches with an alarm
movement that was genuinely audible under water: the Nautical. Its
strike represents a precious function which – thanks to its triple
case-back serving as a resonance chamber – effectively warns divers that
it is time to return to the surface. In 2013, Vulcain pays tribute to
this legendary model by creating a DLC limited edition.
DLC COATING
This highly durable, charcoal grey layer with a low friction coefficient
consists of an atomic lattice composed of the two forms of carbon:
diamond (sp³) and graphite (sp²). Diamondblack™DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon)
is applied using a coating process which faithfully mirrors the
original surface finishes. Diamondblack™DLC consists solely of molecules
of carbon and hydrogen arranged in a structure similar to that of
diamond, producing a layer with excellent chemical stability and high
corrosion resistance.
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Its proven biocompatibility enables prolonged
contact with the skin without causing irritation. It has a very high
level of hardness, around 5,000 Vickers, compared to stainless steel,
approximately 200 Vickers. This high-tech coating is used in the
aerospace industry and in any application in which wear-resistance and a
low friction coefficient are essential.
Case:
DLC-coated satin-brushed, polished black knurled bezel Case-back: triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber and
enabling underwater use of the alarm function Dial:
Black Diameter: 42.00 mm Thickness: 17.30 mm Glass: plexi Movement: VULCAIN MANUFACTURECricket V-10
Mechanical 12-lignes manually-wound alarm movement,
25 jewels,
157 parts, twin barrels,
Equipped with Exactomatic system,
48° angle of
lift Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws Functions:
Hours, minutes, central seconds, alarm, fixeddial with
decompression-table indication and
60-minute graduated rotating inner
bezel ring activated by a screwlocked crown at 4 o’clock Alarm duration: approx. 20 seconds Water resistance: 30 ATM Power reserve:
42 hours Strap:
Rubberised waterproofed leather black Dimensions: 22/18 mm Buckle:
DLC-coated steel pin buckle
German watch manufacturer NOMOS Glashütte is unveiling two new watches
in October, in which both the attention to detail and the effort
involved in production and watchmaking has been brought to perfection.
Lux and Lambda are the names of the two new hand-wound models “Made in
Glashütte, Germany”. These two exquisite watches will be available in
white gold. The Lambda model also comes in rose gold—and with a dial
that is silver-plated by granulation. Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...
The timepieces, which will
be produced in very small numbers, combine Glashütte fine watchmaking
with NOMOS characteristics and simply timeless design.
The
Lambda model is round, while Lux has a classic Tonneau shape. The
light-colored dials under the curved sapphire crystals are refined,
understated and as fine as pencil drawings: the Lambda model is cream,
while the Lux model comes in blue and off-white. The caliber side, which
is visible in both cases through the generous back, is more refined
than ever: featuring a swan neck fine adjustment, rhodium-plated
three-quarter plate, edges angled and polished by hand and fine sunbeam
polishing, which is only to be found in this particular style at NOMOS
Glashütte. As well as screwed gold chatons, a screw balance and
hand-engraved balance cock that reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt”
(lovingly produced in Glashütte).
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The calibers at work within
these flat watches are the fine hand-wound movements DUW 1001 (Lambda)
and DUW 2002 (Lux). Constructed in-house in the NOMOSatelier, where
they are also mounted and adjusted in six positions, equivalent to
chronometer standards. DUW stands for “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS
Glashütte”- a new name, with which the boutique watchmaking firm is
presenting its credentials as a producer of in-house built movements to a
wider audience. Thanks to the twin mainspring barrels, both DUW 1001
and DUW 2002 have a power reserve of 84 hours — in DUW 1001 this is shown
sweeping across the dial, while Lux manages with only three hands.
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Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...
Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...
The
design of these classic watches has also been paid an exceptionally
high degree of attention; a high quality team was engaged in the task
over the course of three years. Designers from the Zurich-based Studio
Hannes Wettstein drafted the flat and wrist-flattering gold case, while
Prof. Axel Kufus, Michael Paul and the team from the NOMOSdesign office
Berlinerblau in Berlin drew up the fine dials, hands, and the cambered
straps from fine Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan.
NOMOSLambda (Rose Gold/White Gold)
In
mathematics, the Greek letter Lambda is a symbol for intrinsic values.
At NOMOS Glashütte, it is the name of a highly precise instrument,
constructed according to the rules of science and those of the
watchmaking craft in the NOMOS workshops. For all this logic and reason,
it remains a timepiece that calls forth the highest emotions. In white
gold or, as shown here, a tick warmer in rose gold: a fine choice
between two watches, both exemplifying handicraft of the very best kind.
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DUW 1001, Lambda’s caliber differentiates it in many ways from all other
(equally fine) watches. The rubies of the movement, in which the staffs
of the wheels turn, are held in polished gold chatons (18 karat), which
are in turn screwed to the three-quarter plate with two or three blued
screws. The edges of all the cocks and plates are angled and polished by
hand.
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And the three-quarter plate is decorated with a stripe polish
that catches the light beautifully, which is only to be found in this
particular style at NOMOS Glashütte: the fine sunbeam polishing.
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Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...
Twin
mainspring barrels ensure an extra power reserve—this extremely precise
watch only requires winding twice a week. This is displayed on the dial
side in the most aesthetically pleasing way: DUW 1001 has a 84-hour
power reserve indicator.
Lambda Rose Gold (Reference number: 930) Case: Rose gold 18 kt, tripartite; diameter 42 mm; sapphire crystal glass;
sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.9 mm Dial: white silver-plated by granulation
22 mm
Hands: gold-plated Water resistant: to 3 atm Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan dark brown, hand stitched;
solid rose gold 18 kt buckle clasp Lambda White Gold (Reference number: 931) Case: white gold 18 kt, tripartite; diameter 42 mm; sapphire crystal glass;
sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.9 mm Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated Hands: rhodium-plated
22 mm
Water resistant: to 3 atm Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, hand stitched;
solid white gold 18 kt buckle clasp
Movement DUW 1001—in-house built NOMOScaliber with manual winding and power reserve indicator Diameter: 14 ¼ lines (32 mm) Movement height: 3.6 mm Power reserve: approx. 84 hours Characteristics:
29 jewels, of which six in polished and screwed gold chatons, twin
mainspring barrels, hand-engraved balance cock, screw balance, 21 600
a/h, adjusted in six positions (equivalent to chronometer standards),
balance spring Nivarox 1A, swan neck fine adjustment, rhodium-plated
thre equarter plate with fine sunbeam polishing, angled and polished
edges
This
model in white gold is the boldest, most impressive watch in the new
selection from NOMOSGlashütte. The dial is light blue, like the sky
over the city on fair days, and graced with fine detailing on its white
face. The Tourneau case flatters the wrist, giving the caliber plenty
of room. The Lux Whitegold hell version is without the light blue print
on dial. Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...
The twin mainspring barrels in Calibre DUW 2002 ensure
that this watch only needs to be wound once every 84 hours, or twice a
week. Further special features include the swan neck fine adjustment and
the screw balance in the hand-engraved balance cock (which reads “Mit
Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt”, meaning “lovingly produced in
Glashütte”), the fine sunbeam polishing developed by NOMOS Glashütte and
the five screwed gold chatons that, rather unusually, are positioned in
a line across the movement: everything about this calibre radiates the
joy with which it was constructed.
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Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ...
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----------------------------------- Technical details NOMOS Lux White Gold(Reference number: 920) Case: white gold 18 kt, tripartite; size 40.5 mm by 36 mm; sapphire crystal glass;
sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.95 mm Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated, light blue printed Lug width: 18 mm Hands: rhodium-plated Water resistant: to 3 atm Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, hand stitched; solid white gold 18 kt buckle clasp NOMOS Lux White Gold Hell (Reference number: 921) Case: white gold 18 kt, tripartite; size 40.5 mm by 36 mm; sapphire crystal glass;
sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.95 mm Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated Lug width: 18 mm Hands: rhodium-plated Water resistant: to 3 atm Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, hand stitched; solid white gold 18 kt buckle clasp
Movement
DUW 2002—in-house built NOMOS calibre with manual winding
Dimensions: 32.6 mm by 28.8 mm
Movement height: 3.6 mm
Power reserve: approx. 84 hours
Characteristics:
23 jewels, of which five in polished and screwed gold chatons, twin
mainspring barrels, hand-engraved balance cock, screw balance, 21 600
a/h, adjusted in six positions (equivalent to chronometer standards),
balance spring Nivarox 1A, swan neck fine adjustment, rhodium-plated
threequarter plate with fine sunbeam polish, angled and polished edges
The
watchmaking company is therefore taking another significant step on its
journey with these new watches. Since 1990, NOMOS has been building
prize-winning timepieces in Glashütte, watches that have long been
recognized as classics—namely Tangente, Tangomat, and Ahoi, Orion,
Tetra, Ludwig, Zürich, and Club. Lux and Lambda with DUW 1001 and DUW
2002 are now emblematic of this progression, which took place over the
course of many years: the quintessence of those already firm favourites.
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The two golden watches and their calibres will be presented to
the public for the first time at MUNICHTIME at the beginning of
November—and sold from then onwards in selected retailers worldwide.