Thursday, May 30, 2024

ROGER DUBUIS – HYPER WATCHES Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon Edition

 

ROGER DUBUISHYPER WATCHES ORBIS IN MACHINA CMT Monotourbillon Gold 45 Exclusive Boutique Edition 2024

 A Creation of Contrasts:
The Orbis in Machina

Bold, unexpected, and forever at the forefront of expressive design, Roger Dubuis is a watchmaker like no other. A Maison that perpetuates the finest traditions, while simultaneously shaping the future with its own extravagant interpretations.

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This has been the daring ambition within this Swiss manufacture since its inception in 1995. A unique approach fuelled by the dream of Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, who envisioned one-of-kind timepieces for his closest circle of friends. Still today, that drive for exclusivity lives on through the Maison’s bold invention of Hyper Horology™.

This year, the Roger Dubuis journey continues at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 – where the Maison’s tourbillon artistry will be demonstrated like never before. To see exactly what sets Roger Dubuis apart, visitors can immerse themselves in not one, but four exciting new releases, each distinguished by complex tourbillon mechanics as well as breath-taking aesthetics.

Introducing the Orbis in Machina

Contrasts are revealed. Harmony is created. The new Orbis in Machina presents a dual perspective of Roger Dubuis’ iconic tourbillon craftsmanship. The astonishing creation embraces both heritage as well as modern engineering, emphasizing the duality of the design, and creating a visible link between watchmaking generations. The story is told from front to back and reveals the art of tradition matched by the cutting-edge architecture of today.

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The name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon, and the circular orbit of the watch’s display. A fusion of movement and mechanical ingenuity that brings the concept to life.

Continuing the Central Tourbillon Calibre

Roger Dubuis has long been associated with tourbillon distinction, having developed its own line of in-house tourbillon movements over the course of more than 20 years.

The manual-winding Calibre RD115 marks the Maison’s latest significant milestone and is housed inside the Orbis In Machina watch. Built from 283 components and with 29 rubies, the Calibre RD115 is a Flying Tourbillon - just like all Roger Dubuis tourbillons made since 2003. More impressive to look at, yet much more complex to build.

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 For Mr. Roger Dubuis, the Maison’s founder, it was forever important to draw inspiration from the past and transform it into modern mechanisms. Here, that philosophy is dutifully continued with the watch’s selection bolt, which is inspired by the ancient “Ébauche” components of high horology. By doing so, it has allowed the watchmakers to place the winding and setting system at the bottom of the movement, liberating more space above for the hour hand.

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Innovation also comes in the use of materials: to increase resistance to magnetic fields and keep perfect control of the weight, the lower tourbillon cage is in anti-magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel – while the upper tourbillon cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. Finally, the power reserve is optimised to 72 hours.

Designed with a Difference

Within this latest creation, the central placement of the tourbillon has given the watchmakers a unique opportunity to play with the décor - and take their aesthetics in a different and more circular direction.

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This is most evident in the watch’s round lines and deep volume. As opposed to the emblematic Roger Dubuis position at 7 o’clock, the flying tourbillon sits neatly at the centre, setting the stage for a beautiful concentricity. The mechanism itself has also been purified as well as compacted, thanks to a new patent-pending planetary system, not only creating more space, but firmly establishing an alternate look compared to other tourbillons of the past.

The Contemporary Face

The Central Monotourbillon is indeed a rare sight within watchmaking. In creation, it poses a number of challenges, such as finding a different way to display the hands, while also redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself.

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Naturally, Roger Dubuis has embraced that challenge with both hands. From the front, this 45mm timepiece is therefore contemporary as well as captivating.

Starting at the middle, the designers have worked outwards, delivering an aesthetic purity through contrasting concentric circles in pink gold and grey that indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. It’s an overall reinterpretation of the skeleton style, allowing the watchmakers to play with the space and glorify the tourbillon by placing it at the centre.

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The 3D discs for the minutes and hours displays are particularly prominent and are contrasted by open-worked flying hands, mounted on ball bearings, that are double-sided and sharp. This particular display required the invention of a patent-pending system, which can safely disengage the hands and allow the watch to be set with assured stability. 

A similar double-sided approach has been taken for the flange, which houses the hour indications on the outer perimeter.

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Going one step further, the Maison’s watchmakers have set all of the circles at different heights, delivering a multi-levelled décor that draws the wearer in. While revealing a glimpse of the skeletonised calibre beneath, it once again shows the high level of modern workmanship at which Roger Dubuis is able to perform.

A Caseback of Horological Excellence

Roger Dubuis was one of the first watchmakers to systemize transparent casebacks on all watches within its collection. This created an unrestricted view into the Maison’s mechanical world and showcased the impeccable work that goes into every component. More to the point, it revealed the dedication to Poinçon de Genève certification, whereby the surfaces of every component within the calibre must be hand-decorated to the highest standard.

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In the Orbis in Machina, the sapphire crystal acts as a window to the utmost excellence of Geneva fine watchmaking. In contrast to the front of the watch, the view through the back is based on detailed heritage, with a look that will instantly appeal to connoisseurs of high horology. Two opposing yet complementary sides that show the differentiation and duality that characterises Roger Dubuis.

The artistry and hand finishing through the caseback is almost baroque in its appearance, with elaborate detailing that feels rich and exclusive. Take note of specific details, such as the sliced bridges, and the rounder lines, which are very much rooted in classic Geneva haute horologie. 19 specific finishing techniques are used, including the elegant perlage, Côtes de Genève, and snailing.

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The ultimate reward for this dynamic skeletonized approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it sets the benchmark for quality as well as craftsmanship.

A Roger Dubuis Rarity

Crafted with an 18K pink gold case and bezel and presented on a black leather strap with a quick release system, the Orbis in Machina delights with both aesthetics and performance.

This is Roger Dubuis’ first Central Tourbillon timepiece launched within the main collection – and will be released in a series of only 88 editions.

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For collectors and connoisseurs, this immaculate timepiece is perhaps the best expression of who Roger Dubuis is today. A watchmaker who embraces the know-how of the past – and then transforms it with modern creativity and innovation. It is indeed a watch of contrasts. The very same spirit that built the reputation of this entire Maison.

The Orbis in Machina is unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, where Roger Dubuis’ unmistakeable Hyper Horology™ is waiting to be discovered inside a temple-like sanctuary, dedicated to the Maison’s pillars of watchmaking expertise. Visitors to the display can immerse themselves in the innovation and extravagance on show, while seeing this new timepiece amongst a quartet of new and impressive tourbillon releases.

#NoRulesOurGame  

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: HYPER WATCHES ™

Model:  HYPER WATCHES ™ Machina Central Monotourbillon Edition

Limited edition of 88 pieces
• Boutique exclusive
• Poinçon de Genève

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 Ref.  RDDBEX1119

 DESCRIPTION 

A rare complication, mastered by only a few watchmakers, the Central Monotourbillon, was
designed by Roger Dubuis to create a contrast between the sleek, modern front with
contemporary finishes and the much richer, baroque back with elements of early Roger
Dubuis watches, such as cut-out bridges and round lines rooted in Geneva tradition. The
same contrast that made the reputation of the first Roger Dubuis watches, makes this
tourbillon a piece for collectors who will attach importance to all these prestigious details.
The tourbillon mechanism has been streamlined for maximum concentration and to
differentiate it from the existing 42 mm Excalibur Monotourbillon
by its roundness,
concentricity, and symmetry, all in a 45 mm case. Here we are looking at a watch whose
watchmaking content is both impressive and reassuring.

SPECIFIC HIGHLIGHTS
• A watch with two faces: contemporary on the front and traditional on the back.
• A rare complication made for collectors and watchmaking connoisseurs.
• A specific break-through design: symmetric, concentric, and round in opposition to other
tourbillons of the brand

MOVEMENT
Calibr  RD115
Skeleton, Central Flying Monotourbillon
Manual-winding
Diameter: 16 lignes
Thickness: 10.67 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21’600 vph
Number of parts: 283
Number of rubis: 29
Power reserve of 72 hours

 CASE
Material: Pink gold 750/1000
Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.41 mm
Open case back sapphire crystal

Water Resistance: 5 bar (50 m)
DIAL
3D multi-level display, for hours, minutes and seconds to highlight the central complication.
1. Grey double surface flange, satin-brushed, with transferred texts, polished pink gold-plated hour markers with SLN in the center.
2. Grey double surface disc, satin-brushed and mirror polished, with transferred texts and minutes markers
3. Grey disc, satin-brushed, with transferred texts and seconds markers
HAND
Open worked, double-sided hour and minute hands, brass pink gold plated, satin-brushed, with white SLN on inner faces. Both fixed hand on a rotating disc.
QRS 
STRAP
The Central Monotourbillon is adorned with a premium calf leather strap, interchangeable thanks to Quick Release System
BUCKLE
Pink gold 750/1000, triple folding buckle interchangeable with Quick Release Systemm

 🔰  Limited Edition - Only of 88 pieces ❱❱❱ Online Exclusive

 🔴 Price  upon request 💰

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Press release - 2024
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For more information, please contact:
Pauline SIZORN
Press Manager
Tel: +41(0)22 783 28 44
Email: france.garlot@rogerdubuis.com
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Wednesday, May 29, 2024

MB&F – Legacy Machine LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Edition


MB&F –  Legacy Machine LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Chronograph Edition 2024

 LEGACY MACHINE
SEQUENTIAL FLYBACK PLATINUM
Just when you thought the chronograph couldn’t get any better

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The LM Sequential EVO, released in 2022, was MB&Fs’ first chronograph and 20th calibre; it featured significant technical innovations and an unprecedented combination of timing modes thanks to its “Twinverter” binary switch: independent timing, split-second, cumulative and lap-timer modes. It won the GPHG ‘Aiguille d’Or’, the most coveted prize in watchmaking.
The new Flyback edition goes further than the previous EVO editions: on top of the previous timing modes typically associated with motor racing, it adds the flyback function originally conceived for pilots, bringing the Sequential into the world of aviation.
The new Flyback edition with sky blue dial plate comes in the more classic Legacy Machine styling, in a platinum case with screwed lugs and white lacquered dials – including a tilted hours and minutes dial – on a leather strap.
The Sequential and Sequential Flyback movements were conceived and developed by Stephen McDonnell, who previously created for MB&F the award-winning LM Perpetual.

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In 2022, MB&F unveiled its Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, a twin chronograph that opened up a world of timing possibilities. This ground-breaking chronograph redefined the chronograph as we knew it, winning the hearts of collectors and the coveted GPHG ‘Aiguille d’Or’ award the same year.

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Conceived by Stephen McDonnell, one of the original MB&F Friends and the mastermind behind the 2015 LM Perpetual, the LM Sequential EVO was one of those timepieces that was so profoundly useful that it made you wonder why no one had thought of it before. Multiple timing modes allowed you to time everything from two athletes at the same time to consecutive lap times around a track, and even two different dishes in the oven, to name a few of its extremely practical applications.

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 But if the LM Sequential EVO wasn’t mind-blowing enough, there was another feature that Stephen and MB&F were keen to include: the flyback function. Stephen’s original prototype movement was actually designed with a flyback system on the left-hand chronograph and provisions for it were built into the LM Sequential EVO. But it was extremely complicated to perfect with the watch taking nine months of prototyping, four of which were dedicated to the flyback function alone. Add to this six different re-designs, and all the work and components that went with them, and McDonnell felt that it would be unwise – reckless even – to release the watch with a flyback when there were so many unproven elements in play.

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But the dream was there, right from the very beginning, and everything was designed to be able to incorporate it at a later date. The chronographs could have been conceived in several different ways, but only one of these configurations would allow the inclusion of a flyback, changing the fundamental way the chronographs were designed.

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The internal jewelling of the vertical clutches is the key to the whole Sequential chronograph, and the new flyback system also requires jewelling, without which it would not work. The system is very subtle, and a great deal of work went into reducing all the friction to a minimum so that the flyback did not cause the return-to-zero to block. To achieve this, McDonnell incorporated a special jewelled roller into the flyback mechanism. Such a component is unavailable directly from any supplier of jewels, so for the first prototype, McDonnell made the jewel himself in order to prove the concept of this ground-breaking mechanism (one of five patented elements).

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Two years of secret-keeping and testing were required so that the system would be robust enough in the long term, and now the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum is ready, steady, go!

So, what can it do?

The LM Sequential Flyback Platinum features the same layout as the LM Sequential EVO with two chronograph displays. One has its seconds display at 9 o’clock and minutes display at 11 o’clock. The other has its seconds display at 3 o’clock and minutes display at 1 o’clock. Each of these chronographs can be started, stopped, and reset completely independently of the other, using the start/stop and reset pushers on their respective sides of the case. With the new flyback function, the reset pushers also trigger the flyback if the corresponding chronograph is running. These pushers make up the four chronograph pushers you would usually associate with having two chronograph mechanisms in one watch.

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However, there is a fifth pusher, called the Twinverter, located at the 9 o’clock position. This “magic button” as Stephen likes to call it, is the secret that elevates the functionality of the LM Sequential timepieces beyond any existing chronograph wristwatch. It controls both chronograph systems, operating as a binary switch that inverts the current start/stop status of each chronograph. This means that if both chronographs are stopped, pressing the Twinverter causes both of them to start simultaneously. If they are both running, the Twinverter makes them stop. And, if one is running and the other is stopped, the Twinverter stops the one that is running and starts the one that is stopped.

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In terms of practical applications, these functions allow the chronograph to be useful in numerous situations, as the following examples illustrate:

Independent mode
Imagine the preparation of a meal, where different things need to be cooked for different periods of time, at different points in time. You would operate the two chronographs via their respective pushers — for instance, starting one when you put your pasta into boiling water and starting the other when the vegetables go in the oven. In fact, this application comes in handy in all areas of personal productivity. 

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At the gym, for example, when trying to optimize your physical workout routine, one chronograph can be set to time your entire session whilst the second is used to record your time at each station, or the downtime in between. In this example, the new flyback function can come in handy to swiftly reset and restart the timing sequence with a single press on the reset button, combining the three steps – stop, reset to zero, and re-start – in one.

Simultaneous or split-second mode

This mode can be used in a race involving two competitors, starting simultaneously. The Twinverter allows the wearer to start both chronographs at exactly the same time, but the different end times can be easily recorded by pressing each chronograph’s individual start/stop pusher. 

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To note, the durations of the events can exceed 60 seconds, which is the limit for the vast majority of split-second chronographs on the market. In this mode, you can also use the new flyback function if you want to quickly restart timing.

Cumulative mode
In the work environment, you might want to know how much time you spend on two separate projects as you switch between them throughout the day. 

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By starting one chronograph when you begin working on one task, and then using the Twinverter when you shift focus to the second task (switching again when you go back to the first), you can easily track the amount of time you cumulatively spent on each task. Another example of this usage is the timing of a chess match.

Sequential mode (or lap-timer mode)
For those timing competitive sports, this mode can be used to measure individual lap times. Starting one chronograph at the beginning of an event and using the Twinverter upon the completion of a lap instantly launches the second chronograph in order to time the next lap, while the first chronograph is stopped, allowing ample time for the timing result to be noted down.

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The stopped chronograph can then be reset to zero, ready to be relaunched with the Twinverter for the following lap. Thanks to its minutes’ totalisers, the LM Sequential can be used effectively in sporting events with average lap times of over a minute (which includes the vast majority of motor sports).

Flyback mode

The flyback was originally developed in the 1930s for airplane pilots, to allow accurate timing of flight paths from waypoint to waypoint. It was found that the time to stop, reset, and restart a chronograph took so long that errors in navigation would result, which would be compounded as these accumulated over the course of a journey with multiple legs. The flyback allowed this to be done simultaneously: stop, reset and restart in a single press on the reset pusher. Combining the new flyback function with the other timing modes of the Sequential calibre offers even more functionality. For example, a pilot can keep track of overall flight time on one chronograph, while using the other chronograph to accurately time each leg with the flyback function.

Powering such an engine

The design of the LM Sequential is completely unique. It encompasses two independent chronographs within a single movement, both of which are linked to a common escapement and oscillator. The energy losses associated with a conventional chronograph are well known, so imagine what can happen with two chronographs in a single movement? The losses would be doubled, resulting in unacceptably poor performance. All this functionality within a single watch required the invention of a fundamentally new type of chronograph system, one which would not be susceptible to any sort of energy losses.

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This is exactly what the LM Sequential does, thanks to the use of its innovative internally-jewelled vertical clutches and their associated control system. The new flyback mechanisms also incorporate jewelled rollers. Thanks to these patented solutions, the Sequential calibre outperforms conventional chronographs in terms of energy efficiency and precision.

For the history buffs

The word chronograph has Greek etymological roots. The first part comes from χρόνος (chrónos), meaning time, as seen in words such as chronology and chronicle. The second part is derived from γρᾰ́φω (gráphō), meaning to write, to make a written record of something. Just as a phonograph describes a system of recorded sound and a photograph is recorded light, a chronograph gives us recorded time. In the early 19th century, chronographs were associated with horseracing, developed according to the necessity to precisely determine the timing results of such a fast-paced sport. These early chronographs used droplets of ink to mark timings on dials even as they continued to run, allowing specific timings to be preserved for the record (at least until the chronograph was stopped and the dial wiped clean for the next race).

In the early days of motor racing, a timing system was used whereby multiple chronograph pocket watches were mounted on a frame, and a “combined operating lever” allowed all of the watches to be actuated simultaneously. However, there were inherent inaccuracies in this approach, as the multiple watches would often run at slightly different rates. Moreover, such a cumbersome arrangement could clearly never be worn on the wrist.

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When Maximilian Büsser spoke to Stephen McDonnell in 2016, raising the possibility of a follow-up to Legacy Machine Perpetual (2015), the response from Stephen was four words long: “I have an idea.” It was a response as cryptic as it was exciting, particularly if you knew the kind of ideas that came from the mind of Stephen McDonnell. That conversation with Max accelerated a train of thought that Stephen had been mulling over for some time — that most modern chronographs were unable to adequately perform the job they had been designed for.

The combined operating lever immediately suggested itself to him as a way to ensure that sequential race events could be measured with maximum precision with a manually operated mechanical chronograph. The provision of two independent chronograph systems which could be actuated together simultaneously meant that different timings could be taken and preserved long enough for the results to be recorded. The key would be to find a way to pack all of this functionality into a single wristwatch…

From then on, the various solutions fell into place. Using two separate chronograph mechanisms linked to the same oscillator — an idea practically made for the Legacy Machine, with its central flying balance wheel — meant that timing errors due to tiny chronometric discrepancies between different timers would be eliminated.

Stephen McDonnell continued to refine his vision of the ideal chronograph, reconfiguring the chronograph vertical clutch to sit within the main gear train in order to eliminate the infamous flutter of the chronograph seconds hand without the need for an amplitude-draining friction spring. He incorporated internally jewelled chronograph clutch shafts that would make amplitude fluctuation between the active and inactive modes of the chronograph a thing of the past.

The crowning touch to Stephen McDonnell’s ideal chronograph, augmenting the role played by the combined operating lever found in historical chronograph systems, is the Twinverter concept. The ability to toggle instantly between chronograph operating modes directly opens up this age-old complication to be used in a variety of situations in modern daily life. It is the programming logic gate of mechanical watchmaking, a system that could have been devised only by the creator of the mechanical processor at the heart of Legacy Machine Perpetual.

Dream-maker meets watchmaker: more about Max and Stephen

Those who know the story of MB&F will know that Northern Ireland watchmaker Stephen McDonnell is counted among the key figures who brought the first creations of Max Büsser into the world. He was one of the handful of watchmakers who assembled the first few movements for what would become Horological Machine N°1.

A decade later, Stephen McDonnell re-entered the world of MB&F to develop the Legacy Machine Perpetual: a groundbreaking approach to one of the most prestigious traditional high complications, the perpetual calendar. His philosophy of watchmaking is directly complementary to that of Max, taking a blue-sky approach to practical horology, compared to Max’s way of turning space-age fantasies into wrist-worn realities.

They both have a knack for answering questions that most of us never even realised we were asking. It is conceivable that in a parallel universe, one where the LM Sequential Twinverter could be used on people, it would link Max and Stephen even further as watchmaking inverses of each other.

As MB&F enters the last stretch of its second decade, it is appropriate that someone who helped the brand come to life is instrumental in bringing it to a new level of horological legitimacy. The LM Sequential is more than a recorder of time. It is a recorder of history — between Maximilian Büsser, the brand he created, and the watchmaker who was there from the beginning. ---------------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   Legacy Machine LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Edition

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Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback
launches in a platinum edition with sky blue dial plate limited to 33 pieces.

Engine
Fully integrated dual chronograph flyback system developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring Twinverter switch allowing multiple timing modes.
Manual winding with double mainspring.
72 hours (3 days) power reserve.
Flying balance wheel with regulating screws at 12 o’clock, Breguet overcoil.
Superlative hand finishing; internal bevel angles highlighting handcraft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, darkened bridges (NAC finish).
White lacquered inclined dials.
Balance frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vph).
Number of components: 619.
Number of jewels: 63.

Functions
Time display (hours/minutes) at 6 o’clock.
Left chronograph : seconds displayed at 9 o’clock and minutes at 11 o’clock; start/stop pusher at 10 o’clock and reset/flyback at 8 o’clock.
Right chronograph : seconds displayed at 3 o’clock and minutes at 1 o’clock; start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock and reset/flyback at 4 o’clock.
Twinverter pusher at 9 o’clock: binary switch that inverts the current start/stop status of both chronographs.
Both chronographs are equipped with a flyback.
Power reserve indication at the back of the movement.
Case
Material: platinum.
Dimensions : diameter 44mm x height 18.2mm.
Number of components : 88.
Water resistance : 30m / 3ATM / 90 feet.
Screw down crown.
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
Alligator strap with white gold folding buckle.
 

 🔰Edition   Limited edition of 33 watches

🔴 Price: MSRP: $ 218.000 / € 192,000 EUR / 188.000 CHF💰

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Press release - 2024
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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