Tuesday, May 14, 2024

LAURENT FERRIER – CLASSIC Moon Annual Calendar Blue & Silver


LAURENT FERRIER –  CLASSIC Moon Phase Blue & Silver – Annual Calendar 40mm 2024

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After winning the GPHG for its Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit which chased the warm colours of dawn, LAURENT FERRIER returns to its Classic first love. Taking us once again on a quest for the skies, this time, it is more ambitious with its new Classic Moon.


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The LAURENT FERRIER atelier proudly presents two outstanding interpretations of their Classic collection. Both versions have an Annual Calendar, and the brand’s first ever moon phase complication. The Annual Calendar Moon Phase is set within the poetic curves of the design chosen by the GPHG as Best Men’s Watch in 2010, the year the brand debuted, a fitting frame for its first lunar complication.

THE CASE DESIGN

The Classic case has the LAURENT FERRIER signature in each sweep of its pebble-smooth curves, with a choice of polished stainless steel or 18-carat red gold. The recognizable and studied shape results from a considered and discreet design evolution, encapsulating two distinct dials with intricate hand-finished details. In presenting two distinctive and complimentary red gold and steel references, the watchmaker offers a new interpretation of the classic stylistic codes for which the brand is known.Both versions have a balanced 40-mm case and delicately curved lugs that offer a smooth, ergonomic presence on the wrist. The aesthetic has all the hallmarks of the LAURENT FERRIER design language, with a gently curved bezel and the pleasure of setting the watch using the ball-shaped crown.

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The Annual Calendar Moon Phase reveals a sapphire case back that offers an expansive view of the new LF126.02 calibre, accompanied by the Olivette on the case back bezel, at 6 o'clock, making the movement accessible to the watchmaker. The gently curved ball crown winds and sets the date and time. A flush-fitted corrector at 10 o’clock is used to adjust the day display, while a second corrector between 8 and 9 sets the moon phase complication with its enigmatic Aventurine glass design.

CLASSIC MOON SILVER

The Classic Moon, with its annual calendar and moon phase, embodies classical elegance, thanks to its meticulously curated dial. The very gentle vertical brushing creates a subtle and delicate interplay of light, giving a sense of purity despite displaying a wide range of indications.

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Encircling the slender Roman numerals and baton markers is a chemin de fer minute track in a rich shade of petrol blue with the 31 date numerals in a classic font. The 31st is rendered in a luscious shade of cherry red, matching the central date pointer.

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Deep-set just below 12 o’clock are two bevelled windows framing a weekday display on the left and the month on the right. The hour and minute hands are slender, ruthenium-treated white gold versions of the Assegai-shaped hands. A debuting feature, resplendent in blue, will inspire a closer look at six o’clock.
At the base of the dial, knowledgeable collectors will recognize a slightly expanded version of the small seconds display. It is intertwined with the first ever Moon Phase complication by LAURENT FERRIER, with a distinct and intricate design in eye-catching Aventurine glass and a translucent enamel.

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This version of the Classic Moon is paired with a brown calf leather strap with a matching Alcantara lining.

CLASSIC MOON BLUE

Like the silver dial, this second version of the Classic Moon by LAURENT FERRIER exudes an unmatched refinement. Its monochrome dial brings a modern twist to the classic design, and a daring yet delicate interpretation of the annual calendar moon phase model.

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Set in a stainless steel Classic case, the tonal grey-blue dial reveals a contemporary feel enhanced by the opaline finish. Its shades contrast beautifully with the crisp graphic of the white Roman numerals, giving the traditional font a dynamic edge. In this version, the encircling date numerals are rendered in a pastel blue, while the 31st stands out with a fresh azure hue, matching the central date pointer. Its tip touches the chemin de fer outer circle, while the slender Assegai-shaped hour and seconds hand are rendered in white-lacquered white gold.

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At six o'clock, the first ever LAURENT FERRIER moon phase display will undoubtedly draw attention with its captivating Aventurine glass display, brought to life by the artisan's skills. This is set within a recessed grey-blue opaline circle with powder-grey markers, offering a soft contrast to the opaline grey-blue dial. The rich blue of the captivating moon phase display embodies the understated elegance that sets any LAURENT FERRIER apart.

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This version of the Classic Moon is presented on a hand-sewn dark grey Nubuck strap with a soft Alcantara lining.

THE MOON PHASE COMPLICATION

As the first ever lunar complication from LAURENT FERRIER, this new creation is the pièce de résistance shared by these two new references. At the centre of the small seconds dial, an enigmatic dark blue moon disc represents the cycles of the moon. 

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First, Aventurine glass from Murano artisans is engraved to create the shape of the moon and stars with hand-applied white paint for the details. The moon and stars are then hand-filled with Super-LumiNova and fired at high temperatures. Afterwards, the Super-LumiNova is further engraved to create craters on the moon’s surface. The magnificent moon phase disc is then adorned with a translucent petrol blue enamel applique, imbuing it with an enchanting and sophisticated effect.

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An understated miniature baton pointer in white-lacquered or ruthenium-treated white gold indicates the seconds. The lunar phases of the Northern Hemisphere are opposed to the Southern Hemisphere moon, as indicated by the N and S markers between the small second markers.

Reflecting the LAURENT FERRIER brand, this first moon phase complication combines traditional age-old watchmaking craftsmanship with current modern sciences and technologies.

A REVISED CALIBRE

These two new LAURENT FERRIER Classic Moon phase references feature an annual calendar with a precision moon phase: a first for the watchmaker. The annual calendar complication recognizes and distinguishes months with 30 and 31 days, automatically advancing to the 1st of the month when appropriate.

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Manual adjustment is only necessary once a year, on March 1st, to adapt to the varying number of days in February. A discreet flush fitted corrector is set on the left side of the case between 8 and 9 o’clock to adjust the moon phase display.

The date is adjusted the same way using a setting pin via a second corrector at 10 o’clock. All other adjustments are easily made using the trademark ball-shaped crown.

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Inspired by the brand’s previous annual calendar movement, the LF126.01, the new LF126.02 is a redesigned and improved version with an 80-hour power reserve, replenished through the crown. Over 30 new components have been added to create this new calibre, and more than twenty have been revised and optimized. A power reserve indicator is positioned on the case back side of the watch movement.

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Highly appreciated by purists, the long blade ratchet pawl is characteristic of all hand-wound LAURENT FERRIER calibres, offering a polished bassiné finish handcrafted in the LF workshops.

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The rear sapphire crystal reveals the mechanism and the finesse of its hand-crafted surface treatment, executed by LAURENT FERRIER watchmakers according to the most demanding criteria of traditional Haute Horlogerie. Each bridge is adorned with Rhodium-treated Côtes de Genève decoration. The main plate is embellished with circular graining, while the edges and interior angles are bevelled and polished by hand, just like each recessed screw head in the movement.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: CLASSIC Moon Annual Calendar Blue & Silver

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 Ref.  LCF039.R5.G3N - Red Gold 

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 Ref.  LCF039.AC.C1WC - Stainless Steel

Movement
Manual winding
Calibre LF126.02
Power reserve: 80-hour
Swiss lever escapement and screw balance
Indications:
Central hours and minutes.
Small seconds at 6 o'clock, power reserve zone indicator on the movement side.
Annual calendar and moon phase:
  • Central hand for the date
  • Day and month indication
  • Moon phase dial at 6 o'clock
• Clockwise and counter-clockwise correction for the calendar in the intermediate position
Diameter: Ø 31.60 mm (14’’)
Thickness: 6.30 mm
Number of components: 266
Number of jewels: 25
Frequency:3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
Case
Stainless steel or 18K/750 5N red gold
Dimensions: 40 mm
3 parts, middle, bezel and bottom hooked
Height: 12.90 mm
Day corrector located at 10 o'clock Moon corrector located at 8:30
“Ball” shaped crown in stainless steel or 18K/750 5N red gold
Water resistant at 30 meters
Dial
Grey-blue opaline or vertical satin-finished silver
Vintage-inspired date numbers in pastel blue or petrol blue transfer, and “31” in azure blue or cherry red
Hour circle with Roman numerals and baton-shaped indices in white or anthracite grey transfer
Small seconds at 6 o'clock, with outer circle in grey-blue opaline and powder grey or anthracite grey
markers
Bevelled windows for the days and months at 12 o'clock
Hands 
18K/750 white gold 210 Pd
Hour and minute: Assegai-shaped, painted white or treated with Ruthenium
Second: baton type without counterweight, painted white or treated with Ruthenium
Date: Assegai-shaped, painted in pastel blue or cherry red
Strap
Dark grey Nubuck or Brown Calf, hand-sewn, tone-on-tone Alcantara lining
Pin buckle in stainless steel or 18K/750 5N red gold

🔴Prices   Red Gold CHF 80,000 / Stainless Steel CHF 70,000 💰


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Press Release - 2024
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Laurent Ferrier SA
Ms­­ Jessica­­ Gasser
Route de Saint Julien 150
1228­­ Plan Les Ouates
Switzerland

Telephone+41 22 716 33 87
Telefax+41 22 341 64 08
Contact : PR@LAURENTFERRIER.CH
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www.LaurentFerrier.ch

Monday, May 13, 2024

CHOPARD – L.U.C Full Strike Titanium Edition

 

CHOPARDL.U.C Full Strike  Ceramicised Titanium Minute Repeater Celadon Green Dial Edition 2024

 A new Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Edition

The crystal-clear sound of the Chopard minute repeater chimes at the heart an audacious new design in ceramicised titanium.

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Following “Sound of Eternity” imited editions in ethical gold, hardened steel, platinum and sapphire, Chopard has preserved the purity of sound of L.U.C Calibre 08.01-L by integrating this patented minute repeater mechanism with monobloc sapphire gongs into a 42.50 mm-diameter case made of anthracite ceramicised titanium. Combining technical innovation with bold styling, this certified chronometer issued in a an exclusive 20-piece edition is the first in the Full Strike family to feature a dial whose verdigris shade has been subtly enhanced by meticulous finishing. It is honoured by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO    In 2016, the first L.U.C Full Strike model heralded a a novel way of generating and propagating the sound of a minute repeater. By using solid sapphire gongs and having the sapphire crystal serve as a resonator, as well as by combining these two components into a single, monobloc entity, Chopard offered incomparable tonal richness and acoustic intensity. This crystal-clear, inalterable sound earned the first L.U.C Full Strike model in rose gold the ultimate “Aiguille d’Or” award at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

The case
An innovative material  

The use of ceramicised titanium for the new L.U.C Full Strike model represents a new feat in Chopard Manufacture’s art of fitting its exceptional minute repeater movement inside a case whose material in no way alters the purity of the sound, since the sapphire crystal is directly connected to the gongs, with which it forms a robust whole. It is the latter that vibrates and excites the surrounding air, forming a perfect loudspeaker. In so doing, it generates the sound and musicality of the L.U.C Full Strike timepiece.

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Widely used in fields such as aerospace, the automotive industry and the production of medical components, ceramicised titanium is obtained by oxidising the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures using electro-plasma technology. The result is a metal with an attractive anthracite colour, offering the combined advantages of titanium and ceramics. The ceramicised titanium used to make the L.U.C Full Strike case – and which the workshops had already used for the L.U.C GMT One Black and L.U.C Time Traveler One Black models – is therefore both very light and shock-resistant, while boasting a superior hardness of around 1,000 Vickers (Hv). By way of comparison, standard grade 5 titanium has a hardness of 300 Vickers. This vastly improves the metal’s coefficient of friction as well as its resistance to wear and corrosion. Machining this innovative metal involves very strict and complex specifications, as the raw elements composing it must be of the highest level of purity. Thanks to this constraint, ceramicised titanium is a highly dermo-compatible material which – along with its light weight – makes the L.U.C Full Strike timepiece extremely comfortable to wear.

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The case measures 42.50 millimetres in diameter and 11.55 millimetres thick: pleasingly balanced proportions that remain identical to previous versions of L.U.C Full Strike and contribute to the L.U.C collection’s characteristic elegance.

The dial
A colourful look for a daring overall effect  

This model features a verdigris dial ensuring elegant chromatic harmony with the anthracite case. This is the first time that Chopard has associated its minute repeater with such a splash of colour: a daring move that demonstrates the Manufacture’s contemporary approach to Haute Horlogerie.

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The centre is finely frosted, while the chapter ring and small seconds counter feature an opaline finish creating a velvety appearance. A cut-out between 9 and 11 o’clock reveals the bead-blasted steel hammers, whose surface has been PVD-treated to match the case colour. These hammers are positioned at dial level and thus clearly visible, forming an integral part of the watch’s design.

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The railway-type minutes track is engraved on the crystal and painted, complementing a chapter ring punctuated by applied herringbone-shaped hour-markers in a matt metallic black shade – like the case – facing anthracite transferred counterparts on the inner ring.

The dial is also punctuated by the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, the “L.U.CHOPARD” logo capsule at 3 o’clock, as well as the concentric power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock: two hands indicate the energy remaining in the barrel driving the movement (which as a 60-hour power reserve), and in the barrel driving the minute repeater.

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The refinement of this model is acknowledged by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, which applies to the construction and finishing of both the movement and the case.

The movement
An unprecedented chronometer with a patented sound mechanism  

The L.U.C Full Strike watch inherits the unique advances characterising the L.U.C 08.01-L movement with its four Chopard-patented technical systems.

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In a minute repeater mechanism, the energy used by the strikework is provided each time the winding lever is activated. Here, the energy comes from a separate, dedicated barrel wound directly by the crown. This enables the L.U.C Full Strike model to chime the most complex and energy-intensive time of day (or night) – namely 12 hours and 59 minutes – up to 12 times. 

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This exceptional autonomy is due to several factors. It benefits from the contribution of a patented clutch-lever mechanism ensuring that the strikework going train is blocked to avoid losing power reserve during the information capture that controls the minute repeater.

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This autonomy is moreover also the result of Chopard Manufacture’s experience in multiple barrels. The founding movement of the L.U.C collection – L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L introduced in 1996 – already featured Chopard Twin technology, whose two superimposed barrels deliver long-lasting and reliable force. Since it has an autonomous energy source, the strikework systematically respects the defined rhythm, with no pauses between the hours and quarters, or between the quarters and minutes, whatever the time and however many times it chimes.

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Keen to preserve the user-friendliness of the minute repeater and to make its operation as secure as possible, Chopard Manufacture has introduced a large number of innovative systems. Thus, if the barrel no longer has sufficient force to power the minute repeater, a safety mechanism blocks its release. Chopard has also filed a patent for a new strikework-activation device. As soon as it is activated, the pusher is disengaged, thereby making it impossible to disturb the running of the minute repeater or to damage it.

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L.U.C Calibre 08.01-L operates at a 4 Hertz frequency, thereby guaranteeing enhanced rate stability and representing a rare feature on a minute repeater. To ensure even greater precision, the L.U.C Full Strike is equipped with a mechanism that stops the seconds hand at 6 o’clock when the crown is pulled out. 

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This stop-second mechanism ensures that the time is set with perfect accuracy. The precision of the movement is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute), a guarantee to which Chopard Manufacture has long been committed.

L.U.C
Elegance and Fine Watchmaking in timeless symbiosis  

Since 1996, Chopard Manufacture has been perpetuating watchmaking expertise and reflecting the inspired vision of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, committed to a quest for innovation and to defending a heritage passed on by generations of watchmakers – true artisans of watchmaking emotions – since the time of Louis-Ulysse Chopard, founder of the Maison in 1860.

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Movement development, finished product design, precious metal smelting, case stamping and machining, calibre components, engraving and traditional hand-crafted finishes, Grand Feu enamel, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: its Swiss workshops in Geneva and Fleurier enable Chopard to master the full range of watch production operations involved in each creation of the L.U.C collection.

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 The work of experienced artisans, these timepieces, whose simple and pure design expresses a high degree of mechanical sophistication, beat to the rhythm of the emotions experienced by the contemporary gentlemen for whom they are intended.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 Collection :   L.U.C

 Model:  Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Titanium Edition

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 Reference: 168604-3002

Limited edition of 20 pieces

Case
    Material: Anthracite ceramicised titanium
    Diameter: 42.50 mm
    Thickness: 11.55 mm
    Crown with integrated strikework pusher, in anthracite ceramicised titanium, with L.U.C logo: 8.80 mm
    Sandblasted caseband, bezel and case-back, engraved case-back
    Exhibition back fitted with sapphire crystal
    Sapphire crystal with two Chopard-patented integrated monobloc gongs
Dial and hands
    Verdigris brass dial with finely frosted centre
    Velvet-finish chapter ring
    Velvet-finish small seconds
    Railway-track minutes ring engraved on the sapphire crystal
    Anthracite transfers
    Applied matt metallic black herringbone-type hour-markers
    Matt metallic black Dauphine fusée hours and minutes hands
    Matt black metallic baton-type small seconds hand
    Matt metallised black baton-type hands for the movement power-reserve indicator and the strikework power-reserve indicator
Movement
 
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L
Number of components: 533
Total diameter: 37.20 mm
Thickness: 7.97 mm
Number of jewels: 63
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Mainplate and bridges in untreated nickel silver
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Minute repeater

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Chopard-patented monobloc sapphire crystal and gongs
Variable-inertia balance
Chopard-patented clutch-lever device serving to block the strikework so as to avoid losing power reserve during information capture
Chopard-patented dedicated ratchet-driving mechanism serving to avoid pauses during chiming
Chopard-patented strikework-activation device serving to act on the pusher whether it is chiming or not, in normal, low, continuous or fast mode
Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

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    Chopard-patented dedicated ratchet-driving mechanism serving to avoid pauses during chiming
    Strikework-activation device serving to act on the pusher whether it is chiming or not, in normal, low, continuous or fast mode (patent pending)
    Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
    Chronometer-certified by the COSC
    Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
Functions/Indications
    Minute repeater striking sapphire gongs (Chopard-patented system)
    Central display of the hours and minutes
    Small seconds display at 6 o'clock
    Concentric display of the watch and strikework power reserves at 2 o’clock
    Stop-seconds function
Strap and buckle
    Strap in hand-sewn grey alligator leather with verdigris alligator lining
    Folding clasp in satin-brushed and polished anthracite ceramicised titanium

 🔰  Limited Edition: Numbered of ✅only 20 pieces

🔴 Price: upon request 💰


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