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Vagabondage I Gold Final chapter of a trilogy started18years ago
In 1997, François-Paul Journe created for a friend a model equipped with a unique automatic movement housed in a round yellow Gold case, named CarpeDiem. This piece features a dial with a wandering jump hour display around a central exposed balance wheel.
Later, François-Paul Journe developed a wandering hours wristwatch with a hand-wound movement, almost mimicking the dial of the CarpeDiem, though redesigned to fit into a Flat Tortue® case.
However, busy with other projects, he decided to leave this model at the prototype stage.
In 2003, François-Paul Journe was contacted by Antiquorum, which was organizing a charity sale for its 30th anniversary for the benefit of theICM Foundation. They were looking for a "unique piece", within a limited timeframe of six months. Seeing it impossible to come up with something new in such a short time, he decided to rework the Vagabondage prototype.
In the end, it is not just one, but three unique "Vagabondage" pieces that were presented: one with a rose Gold case, one in yellow Gold, and one in white Gold, all with Brass movements.
For aesthetic reasons, the brand name is completely absent from the dial. The auction having been a real success, François-Paul Journe received many requests to include the model in his production, and to make it available to a wider public of collectors; which he agreed to do, but in very limited production, given the aesthetic dissimilarity with his other creations at the time.
2004: Vagabondage IPlatinum - Caliber 1504
Vagabondage I is the first timepiece edited in a limited production of 69 Platinum cases with rose Gold movement.
It features digital jumping hours in a wandering window, which position indicates the minutes. Just as the trilogy offered at auction in 2003, the dial is free of any inscriptions.
This particularity will be kept, as well as the use of a hand-wound movement.
2010: Vagabondage II - Caliber 1509
In keeping with the stylistic trademark of its predecessor, the Vagabondage II was cased in a Flat Tortue® case in Platinum, but with a digital hours and digital minutes time display.
To the series collectors, he offers each owner of a Vagabondage I the opportunity to acquire the same serial number for the Vagabondage II.
2017: Vagabondage III - Caliber 1514
In 👉2017, the last series appears, coupled with a world first: The Vagabondage III features a digital hours and digital seconds display. This function has never been developed in watchmaking due to its demanding complexity.
The Vagabondage III is limited to 68 pieces in 6N gold, in addition to 69 in Platinum. Once again, François-Paul Journe offers the first allocations to the owners of the Vagabondage II bearing the same number.
2022: Vagabondage I Gold - Caliber 1504.2
To complete the Gold trilogy, F.P.Journe presents this last iteration, which is however not an exact copy of the Vagabondage I Platinum introduced in 2004.
ointing to a gap of nearly 18 years, the Vagabondage I Gold features an updated movement, reference 1504.2, still manually wound, and a 45.2 x 37.5 mm case.
As François-Paul Journe says: “The first Vagabondage can be considered as a prototype at the time. We now have the experience to make a better, more reliable caliber and so the movement is a new and more updated movement compared to the first attempt. The first was calibre 1504 and this new one is 1504.2.”
As with the previous Vagabondages, this model will be on application, with priority given to to collectors with matching serial numbers of the Vagabondages II and III in Gold.
Movement Calibre 1504.2 in 18K rose Gold Manual winding 21 jewels Dimensions of the movement : * Overall dimensions : 29.30 x 28.20 mm * Casing-up dimensions : 27.30 x 27.30 mm * Overall height : 5.00 mm * Height of winding system : 2.50 mm * Diameter of stem thread : S0.90 mm Balance : Balance with 16 screws Flat Anachron microflamed spring Mobile stud holder Nivatronic laser-welded to the collet Pinned GE stud Frequency : 21.600 VPH, 3 Hz Amplitude : 12h dial up: 300° 12h vertical: 270° Principal characteristics : Straight line lever escapement 15 teeth Two-position crown Two barrels in parallel Power reserve : 50 ± 2 hours Indication : Indication of hours in a mobile window which position indicates the minutes Decoration : High grade Partly circular-grained base plate Straight Geneva waves on the bridges Polished screw heads with chamfered slots Pegs with polished rounded end Steel components polished and bevelled Case Flat Tortue® shape: 45.20 x 37.50 mm Height: 7.60 mm Number of components : Movement: 168 Cased on leather strap: 189 Bracelet Back alligator strap
After two years of successful cooperating we are proud to announce a
synergetic collaboration with our AD and independent watchmaking
specialist “The Limited Edition UK”, in the form of an exclusive
thirty-piece limited edition piece; the superb Kudoke 2 – British
Heritage.
A celebration of an enduring legacy left to the world of watchmaking
by one of the pioneering forefathers of horology, the Kudoke 2-British
Heritage is a tribute to seventeenth century master Thomas Mudge, whose
work in the advancement of chronometry was endorsed and supported by
German astronomer Hans Moritz von Brühl, establishing a connection which
is revisited in this magnificent limited edition wristwatch.
Featuring period finishing techniques, and lavishly embellished with
the style of elaborate handengraving which defined Mudge’s work, the
Kudoke 2-British Heritage is a piece of irresistible charm, elegance and
breathtaking beauty, which connects the past with the present, as well
as honouring the historical horologic link between Saxony and Great
Britain.
Recipient of the prestigious GPHG Petit Aiguille award in 2019, one
of the watch industry’s most coveted honours, the Kudoke 2, upon which
the British Heritage edition is based, is a piece whose deserved
recognition, against formidable competition from established mainstream
marques, has not only elevated the standing of German artisan watchmaker
Stefan Kudoke and his company, but emphatically stamped the rising
presence of independent watchmaking on the world stage.
A natural choice for this special collaboration, the Kudoke 2
British Heritage is a watch which embodies the shared aesthetic purity
and sophistication of traditional Saxon watchmaking, with that of
classical seventeenth century English watchmaking.
It is also a piece
which in every way characterizes the values and identity of The Limited
Edition. An award-winning modern day classic, it is a wonderful example
of uncompromising hand finishing by true masters of the arts of
engraving and finishing, and captures perfectly the elegance and finesse
of one of the great pioneers of horology.
Presented in a 39mm case of stainless steel, the Kudoke 2 – British
Heritage truly lives up to its name. Beneath the subtly curved sapphire
crystal, the pale golden-beige tone of the dial has a fine grenage-style
finish, which is evocative of the frosted effect preferred by many
English watchmakers of the mid-1700s (indeed, the surface has a distinct
sparkle as the light plays across it while the watch moves with the
wrist).
The focal point of the dial is the beautiful domed day/night disc
just beneath the twelve o’clock position. Hand-engraved, and galvanised
in gold and black and white rhodium, it rotates in a twenty-four hour
cycle, depicting the sun, the moon and the stars as they pass above in a
wonderful day and night display, while a discrete golden star, which is
the motif of The Limited Edition, indicates the time of day.
The ring which surrounds the day/night disc, as well as the primary
chapter ring are rhodiumised with a matte satin finish, which creates a
perfect contrast. The numerals and dot indices are applied in a deep
blue lacquer and complement the rich tone of the heat blued hour and
minute hands, the former of which features the Kudoke Handwerk signature
‘infinity’ symbol.
Flat engraving – an engraving technique used by old masters like Thomas Mudge
The Kudoke 2 British Heritage is powered by Kaliber 1-24h, a
proprietary manual winding movement, which has been entirely decorated
and finished in-house by hand. Inspired by the architecture of
historical English pocket watches, which featured a centre balance cock
instead of the more commonly found lateral style of Saxon watches, with
this edition the British influence is stressed even more.
A sapphire exhibition caseback reveals the spectacular vista of
elaborate hand engraving, finishing to the exacting standards of Haute
Horlogerie, and the classical movement architecture which was a
signature feature of fine early English pocket watches.
The fine lines of the ornate floral engraving which adorn the wheel
bridge capture and play with the light, accentuating the meticulous
craftsmanship. Inspired by the work of Thomas Mudge, the special
engraving is the result of many hours of intense precision and hand-eye
coordination, as the pattern is carved into the metal plate.
A tapering
finger-like balance cock divides the bridge between the crown and barrel
wheels and its terminal point above the regulating organ, and its
polished anglage and frosted surface accentuate the symmetry of the
movement.
„More than 15 years ago, I said to my wife, 'I have a crazy idea: I will manufacture my own wat-ches!'“ At that time, Stefan Kudoke
was a student who already had finished his master-watchmaker's degree
and had worked at renowned brands like Glashütte Original, Breguet, and
Blancpain be-fore.
With the founding of his eponymous brand in 2008, Stefan
pursued his dream full-time and made a name for himself as a creator of
exceptionally artistic hand-skeletonized and hand-engraved timepieces
among his KUNSTwerk collection. Of the emergence of his second collection, the HANDwerk line, Stefan explained,
"After more than 10 years, I refined my skeletonizing skills to their
utmost, and I found myself in a position where I wanted to develop my
watchmaking skills further. To use old techniques and keep the practical
know-how of traditional watchmaking alive has always been very
important to me." And he brought this to fruition with the first two
models of his new collection: KUDOKE 1 & 2.
With his first own movement, Stefan has fulfilled his dream.
Valuable lessons were drawn from the old masters, specifically those of
the German-English traditional handcraft of precision watchma-king.
"During the development of the Kaliber 1, I was inspired by the
design of historical English pocket watches whose use of forms I
incorporated into my movement. Ages ago I bought an old English pocket
watch movement that lay unused in a drawer for a long time. One day it
fell into my hands again, just as the idea of Kaliber 1 began to take
shape."
As with his skeleton models, Stefan Kudoke sets
great value upon the refinement of the watch components by hand. Be it
the polishing of edges at bridges or steel parts, the engravings or the
surface treatment of the wheel bridge using a special grinding
technology – all steps during the finishing process are carried out by
hand exclusively. This is how handcrafted pieces of art are created - in
small volumes and with great care and attention to detail.
Established in 2015, under the direction of luxury watch industry veteran and GPHG Academy Member Pietro Tomajer, The Limited Edition is dedicated solely to introducing the unique talents and exceptional craftmanship of the independent watchmakers, to a growing community of Connoisseur collectors around the world. AHCI official partners, The Limited Edition champions the skills and individuality of these independent artisanal watchmakers, having seen this specialised sector shift steadily from the outer peripherals of the wider watch industry, moving ever more into the spotlight, and towards a massively increased awareness in recent years. Since its inception in 2015, The Limited Edition has curated a personally selected collection of beautiful and fascinating contemporary masterpieces from the most respected watchmakers of our time, and, driven by an almost tangible passion, continues to push the parameters of artistic creativity to ever new heights.