Laurent Ferrier and URWERK – Arpal One – Only Watch 2017

Laurent Ferrier and URWERK – Arpal One – Only Watch 2017

Only Watch Partnership

Now presenting its 7th Edition, Only Watch is a biennale auction of unique timepieces that has raised over 25 million Euros to date. Under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco and following the initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, Only Watch is an international watchmaking charity event.

All of the funds collected from the sale of the watches are donated in their entirety to scientific and medical research. The exclusive watches will embark on a world tour starting in the charity’s hometown of Monaco, and then continuing to Asia, the Gulf, the United States and Europe, before the final auction in Geneva on November 11th 2017.

Arpal One, a unique watch signed 

Laurent Ferrier and URWERK
For Only Watch 2017

July 2017 – It’s neither a Laurent Ferrier watch nor an URWERK, yet the signatures of both firms appear on its back. The existence of this unexpected watch defies logic because it is the joint effort of two watchmaking companies that couldn’t be more different. Each bases its identity on the opposite ends of watchmaking’s stylistic spectrum. On one side, the expression of time-honoured traditions; on the other, an anarchic effort to overturn conventions. Laurent Ferrier and URWERK have created a piece of work that is unique, for only one-of-a-kind watches qualify to be sold at the Only Watch auction in aid of the battle against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

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This remarkable watch also offers a unique opportunity to witness two independent brands working together to produce a watch for the Only Watch 2017 sale. Laurent Ferrier has forged an enviable reputation as master of the definitive watch in the classic style. URWERK, on the other hand, has spent the last 20 years challenging the watchmaking world with its bold originality. The result of this extraordinary association is in front of your eyes.

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Let’s deal with the case first. You can well imagine the perfect, almost aerodynamic, curves coming to life in the confident strokes of Laurent Ferrier’s pencil. “It’s a cleanly cut watch. My friends know my love of cars, a predilection expressed in this watch. This new creation is like streamlined coachwork, fluid and without any affront to the eye,” he explains. Such a design demanded a special material. “For that we turned to the Cendres+Métaux company in Biel.” 

 

The case was shaped from an exclusive alloy called ARPAL+, specifically developed for this unique watch. ARPAL+ consists of 75% precious metals and resists wear and scratches better than white gold or steel. Its colour never fades, nor does it oxidise. This alloy was first developed for the electronics industry where it is much appreciated for its strength and because it is easily worked.

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The polished case of the Only Watch by Laurent Ferrier and URWERK is what first catches the eye. It reflects light like no other and seems to sparkle. In contrast, URWERK’s movement was created with every restraint. Unlike the case, it is almost self-effacingly colourless. 

 

The four hours satellites are in a matt pearly grey with diamond-polished outlines while the hours and minutes markers are painted in white SuperLuminova. “We undertook this project with the greatest respect for each other’s work” Felix Baumgartner declares. “We held a great number of operational meetings, setting up a dialogue and developing a friendship that is apparent in the final result. We were aiming for subtlety rather than performance” he adds.

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The time is shown by four satellites, each bearing three hours numerals, which successively sweep past the track of minutes. This original and intuitive way of telling the time is aided by a cover in polyetheretherketone, a thermoplastic known as PEEK, which hides the satellites that are not engaged in indicating the time. The satellites turn on a hidden carrousel, at the heart of the successive passage of the hours. It’s no easy job to engineer the smooth and silent revolutions of a module that weighs 500 times as much as a conventional set of hands.

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Martin Frei has the final word on this remarkable venture: “Throughout the undertaking we complemented one another perfectly, sending the ball back and forth. For example, the cabochon winding crown recalls the stripes of our satellite hours. There are many subtle ways in which we refer to each other’s stylistic codes. While URWERK has opted for discretion, Laurent Ferrier has raised the tone. The result is perfect equilibrium.”

Every two years, the leading names in watchmaking get together to raise funds for research into muscular dystrophy. Each company gives of its best to create a unique watch to entice an enthusiastic, demanding and generous gathering. This year, Laurent Ferrier and URWERK have subscribed to this remarkable initiative.

The story started behind the watchmaking scenes. It was in November 2015 at a watchmaking exhibition like many others, thousands of kilometres away from Geneva. There, two watchmakers, exiled from the cocoons of their respective workshops, made a tentative effort to escape the crowds and take a break. Slightly bewildered by friendly bustle, they sought refuge under a staircase. They hardly knew each other, though their paths had crossed, but destiny seemed to have brought them together. Thus did Laurent Ferrier and Felix Baumgartner meet.

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“We simply introduced ourselves,” recalls Felix Baumgartner. “Of course, I knew him by sight and something about him. But there, we seemed to be alone in the world, lost in a bubble, and so we got to know one another.” Laurent Ferrier picks up the story: “I’m rather shy by nature, but I quickly found common ground with Felix. The place was peculiar, but the time was right.”

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Their friendship was to blossom into a joint project — to build a bridge between two watchmaking companies and thereby to create an exceptional watch for a noble cause. Combining tradition with daring innovation was like mixing oil and water. But that is precisely what URWERK’s Martin Frei likes doing best. “When I learned about the project, I was immediately enthusiastic. Bringing together two visions, two cultures and two generations in a single creation seemed to me a splendid stylistic exercise.”

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Model: Arpal One by Laurent Ferrier and URWERK for Only Watch 2017
Unique piece


Movement   
Calibre: Selfwinding UR5.03 governed by a double turbine
Jewels:    52
Frequency: 28,800v/h – 4Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
Materials:
Satellite hours turned on Geneva crosses in beryllium bronze;
Orbital structure in PEEK (Polyetheretherketone); Carrousel and triple baseplate in ARCAP. 
Finishes:
Circular-grained baseplate, sandblasted satellites, brushed carrousel, chamfered screw slots.
Indications   
Wandering hours, minutes. Numerals painted in SuperLuminova
Case
Materials: Arpal+
Dimensions: Width 40,9mm, length: 60,8mm, height: 20,7mm
Glass:    Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: Pressure tested to 30m/3ATM
Strap:
Sand-coloured leather, hand stitched with matching thread

• Limited Edition: Unique Piece – Only Watch 2017

WHERE CAN I SEE
THE ONLY WATCH COLLECTION
BEFORE THE AUCTION?

• HONG KONG: 23-24 OCTOBER

Christie’s Hong Kong
22nd Floor Alexandra House
18 Chater Road Central, Hong Kong
Opening hours: 10:30 am - 5:30 pm
Contact: Cissy Ngan
cngan@christies.com
(+852) 2978 6711

• TAIPEI: 26-27 OCTOBER

Christie’s Taiwan
13f, Suite 1302, No. 207, Sec. 2,
Tun Hua South Road, Taipei 106
Opening Hours: 11 am - 6 pm
Contact: Teresa Hsu
thsu@christies.com
(+886) 223 220 008

• NEW YORK: 29-30 OCTOBER

Christie’s New York
20 Rockefeller Plaza,
New York, NY 10020
Opening hours: 10 am - 6 pm
Contact: Elisa Catenazzi
ecatenazzi@christies.com
(1)212 636 2329

• LOS ANGELES: 1-2 NOVEMBER

Westime Sunset
8569 Sunset Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90069, USA
Opening hours: 10 am - 6 pm
Contact: Laura Q. Hughes
laura@westime.com
(+1) 310.205.5555

• GENEVA: 9-11 NOVEMBER

Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues
Quai des Bergues 33
1201 Geneva Switzerland
Opening hours: 10 am - 6 pm
Contact: Charles-Henri Gounod
cgounod@christies.com
+41 (0)22 319 17 26





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Media contacts:
Laurent Ferrier: Ms Jessica Gasser
T: + 41 22 716 3387    email : jeg@laurentferrier.ch
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URWERK: Ms Yacine Sar     
T: +41 22 900 2027     email : press@urwerk.com
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LAURENT FERRIER – Galet Traveller GLOBE Night Blue

LAURENT FERRIER – Galet Traveller GLOBE Night Blue White Gold NEW

It is the culmination of a determined endeavour: in 2016, Laurent Ferrier reveals the full measure
of its expertise and mastery of visual aesthetics in its new Galet Traveller Globe Night Blue, with
an interpretation of the Earth seen by night. The model is graced with a three-dimensional dial
marrying gold and champlevé enamel.

he Galet Traveller was presented in 2013. A contemporary timepiece intended for globetrotters,
it offers a new version of the dual-time display. Thanks to keen attention devoted to details and to
balance, as well as to achieving the pleasing proportions and refined curves characterising the
Laurent Ferrier spirit, the model combines perfect legibility with the traditional principles of  haute
horlogerie.

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In 2016, the Galet Traveller collection welcomes a new three-dimensional model: the Galet
Traveller Globe Night Blue, in reference to the new dial specially designed for this timepiece.

The centre of this dial is adorned with a convex planisphere depicting the five continents in 18K
white gold, surrounded by a blue enamel sea. Crafted using the age-old  champlevé technique,
the area destined to host the seas and oceans is hollowed out from the material before the
enamel is applied. The difficulty of this exercise lies in performing this enamelling on a domed
surface serving to reproduce the rotundity of the Earth and in highlighting the central five-
continent motif. The edge of the continents slopes gently towards the coastlines, displaying
various shades of blue.

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The three-dimensional effect is reinforced by several aesthetic details. The emerged territories are
painted and the world’s cities seen by night are depicted by gold leaf-adorned dots further
enhancing the contrast with the oceans. Hand-finished with a circular satin-brushed decoration,
the outer gold ring dips towards the central sphere, thereby accentuating the illusion of a raised
globe literally balanced on top of the dial.

The unique aesthetic of the model is heightened by the drop-shaped hour-markers whose tips
extend beyond the ring, giving the impression that they are literally suspended in the void.

A  DESIGN COMBINING TECH NICAL EXPERTISE AND  LEGIBILITY

The Galet Traveller Globe Night Blue was developed in such a way as to combine practicality with
an overall balance of the timepiece, thus ensuring readability and performance in all
circumstances.

Two perfectly symmetrical oblong pushers delicately integrated into the left-hand side of the case
serve to adjust the local time indicated by the central hand. When passing from one time zone to
another, this central hours hand may be moved forward or backwards in one-hour increments by
successive presses. The upper pusher moves the hand one hour forwards, while the lower one
moves it backwards, all without affecting the minutes hand.

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In addition to this fast adjustment of local time, the date appearing through an aperture at 3
o’clock automatically jumps when the hand passes midnight, thereby adjusting without any
separate intervention to the transitions between different time zones. Meanwhile, the 9 o’clock
aperture keeps track of the reference time (home time). The 24-hour display provides a natural
distinction between daytime and nighttime hours

A TRIED AND TESTED MOV EMENT

The Galet Traveller Globe is powered by self-winding LF Calibre 230.01, incorporating the dual-
time adjustment mechanism as well as the date. It features a system of unidirectional automatic
winding via a pawl-fitted micro-rotor, backed by a double direct-impulse  échappement naturel .

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This escapement is distinguished by the fact that the balance receives two direct impulses for
each oscillation, thereby guaranteeing excellent efficiency matched by an 80-hour power reserve.

CLASSIC AND REFINED  FINISHING

The decoration and finishing are performed in keeping with the spirit of Haute Horlogerie,
combining extreme dexterity with artisan-style expertise. The sapphire crystal case-back of the
Galet Traveller Globe enables one to admire the exquisite refinement of this craftsmanship.

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In addition to the Côtes de Genève décor on the bridges and the circular graining on the mainplate,
the sides are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished. The hand chamfering is
particularly visible in the finesse of the interior angles, highlighting the authentic respect for the
watchmaking art consistently cultivated by Laurent Ferrier.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Galet Traveller GLOBE – Night Blue
Reference: LCF012/G

Movement:

• Self-winding Calibre LF230.01 chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory
• Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system
• Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance.
• Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA technology.
• Indications: hours, minutes, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock(small seconds at 6 o’clock).
• Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two
  push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time
  hour per hour with automatic date correction.
• Stop-seconds function
• Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
• Thickness: 5,80 mm
• Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• 288 parts
• 44 jewels
• Reference LCF0012.G1.NGE08

Aesthetic characteristics

Case:
•    18K non-rhodium plated white gold
•    Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
•    Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
•    Thickness: of the material 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 13.70 mm 
•    Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
•    Water-resistant to 30 metres
•    “Ball-shaped” crown in 18K white gold

Dial:
In 18K gold, spherical centre in translucent blue champlevé enamel with a circular satin-brushed sloping blue rim

• Drop-shaped hour-markers in 18K white gold
• Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
• Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock

Hands:

•    18K white gold gold
•    Hours and minutes: “assegai-shaped”
Strap:
•    Hand-sewn blue  alligator leather, Alcantara lining
•    16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp, in 18K/750 210Pd white gold

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Laurent Ferrier SA
Ms­­ Jessica­­ Gasser
Route de Saint Julien 150
1228­­ Plan Les Ouates
Switzerland

Telephone+41 22 716 33 87
Telefax+41 22 341 64 08
Contact : PR@LAURENTFERRIER.CH
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LAURENT FERRIER – Galet Traveller Enamel World

LAURENT FERRIER – Galet Traveller Enamel World Special Edition NEW

For this special edition, LAURENT FERRIER decided to propose its version of the globe as it offers an enamel dial featuring the world map.

Grand feu cloisonné enamel

The outlines of the continents are formed using the technique of cloisonné: thin 18K gold wires are applied to create the shapes of the continents. Enamel is then deposited in each “cell”.

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The ancestral art of enamelling

Ever since Antiquity, enamel has been used to adorn jewellery creations. Adopted by horologists in the 15th century, enamelling earned its noble pedigree in Geneva.
Grand Feu enamelling is a difficult art to master, since the original colours are modified by successive firings in the kiln. Moreover, the dial itself is rendered more vulnerable by the extremely high temperatures to which it is subjected.

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In a first phase, the selected colours are applied with a brush in a specific order. The dial is then fired at over 840°C, after which it must be cooled down and cleared of any potential imperfections on its surface. The other colours are applied layer by layer and the dial is repeatedly fired accordingly.
Enamellists must be experts in order to predict the evolution of the colours in the various phases. They must also be extremely dextrous if they are to avoid damaging the dial during the firings.

A useful complication

 

The Galet Traveller helps its user get his bearings within this world time. A dual-time display is an extremely useful complication when travelling. This watch was developed with the aim of ensuring extremely smooth handling, while also ensuring visual balance, readability and performance in all circumstances – all values dear to Laurent Ferrier.

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Positioned perfectly geometrically and delicately integrated on the left side of the case, two oblong push-buttons are pressed to modify local time indicated by a central hand. These two buttons at 8 and 10 o’clock are subtly integrated into the case middle so as to follow the harmonious curve of this solid gold “pebble”. Only a tiny notch designed for a fingernail forms a tiny protruding edge in order to facilitate handling. When moving from one time zone to another, the central hour hand indicating local time may be moved forwards or backwards, in one-hour increments, by successive presses.

Pressing the upper push-button advances the hand by one hour, while pressing the lower push-button moves it backwards, all without affect the minutes hand. On a flight from Geneva to New York, the traveller will thus simply need to press the lower push-button six times to ensure the watch is set to exact local time upon landing.

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In addition to this fast local-time adjustment, the date, appearing in a window at 3 o’clock, is automatically modified when the hand passes midnight, thus spontaneously adapting to transitions between the various time zones. The window at 9 o’clock maintains the reference or home time. Thanks to its 24-hour display, it is easy to check whether it is day or night in one’s place of residence even from the other side of the world.

Perfect readability

The Galet Traveller developed by Laurent Ferrier ensures smooth continuity in the watchmaking journey of the House. This same spirit of functionality, as well as readability and aesthetic appeal already present in the other models from the brand. The solid white gold pebble-shaped case – that has become a brand signature – recalls the pocket watches of yesteryear. The winding crown is as round and generously sized as ever, and the gold hands retain their characteristic shape « assagai ».

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The dedicated dial alternates between two aesthetic finishes: grand feu cloisonné by champlevé enamel in the centre and circular satin-brushed around the outside. The extremely slender hour-markers and the two bevelled apertures ensure optimal readability - one at 3 o’clock for the date and the other at 9 o’clock for home time, the Arabic numerals are painted in black. Laurent Ferrier thereby once again proves its ability to find the perfect balance between a strongly identifiable neoclassical design on the one hand, and tried and tested efficiency on the other.

A finely tuned movement

 

The Galet Traveller houses self-winding Calibre LF 230.01, from the famous line of Micro-Rotor movements with natural escapement. It incorporates the dual time-zone adjustment mechanism as well as the date. This useful complication, that took a full two years to develop, is fully integrated and each part is an integral part of the global architecture of the base calibre.

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As with the previous developments, LF Calibre 230.01 features a pawl-fitted micro-rotor unidirectional winding system, backed by a double direct-impulse natural escapement. The latter, devised by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, is now made using modern technologies that contribute to the exceptional precision of Laurent Ferrier watches. The major distinctive feature of this natural escapement lies in the fact that two impulses are directly imparted to the balance with each oscillation. Its excellent efficiency guarantees a high amplitude for the balance operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

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Laurent Ferrier uses a silicon pallet-lever for its lightness and its self-lubricating properties, as well as escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy known for its extreme hardness, all made using LIGA technology. The main advances of these cutting-edge materials lies in the resulting perfect surface states, as well as strong resistance to both wear and corrosion.

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The micro-rotor is in engine-turned 18K gold. It is fitted with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system similar to chassis mounting rubbers. The winding device is offset and fitted on the mainplate between two bridges, and fixed between two jewels. This reduces the thickness of the movement and provides a clear view of the construction, while ensuring maximum stability compared with a conventional oscillating weight.

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This innovative horological architecture, complemented by the natural escapement, serves to achieve a one-third increase in the winding force of the micro-rotor and thus to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. Its efficiency is thus far superior to the majority of classic escapements and is above all extremely stable over the long term – an asset that significantly contributes to the exceptionally accurate rate of this chronometer certified.

Sophisticated finishing

 

The decoration and finishing of the movement are in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions. The sapphire crystal case-back of the Galet Traveller provides a fine view of the finesse of this workmanship. In addition to the Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges and the circular-graining of the mainplate, the sides are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished. The authenticity of the hand chamfering is perceptible in the clean cut of the interior angles that no machine can achieve and which demonstrate the authenticity of the watchmaking art as exercised by Laurent Ferrier.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Galet Traveller Enamel World

 
Reference: LCF0012/GG

Movement:

• Self-winding Calibre LF230.01 chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory
• Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system 

Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ....                 BIG FOTO

Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ....                 BIG FOTO

• Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance.
• Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA technology.
• Indications: hours, minutes, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock.
• Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic date correction.
• Stop-seconds function
• Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
• Thickness: 5,80 mm
• Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• 298 parts
• 44 jewels

Aesthetic characteristics

Case:•    18K/750 210Pd non-rhodium plated white gold or 5N red gold
•    Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
•    Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
•    Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
•    Water-resistant to 30 metres
•    “Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/750 210Pd white gold or 5N red gold
Dial:
•    Grand feu enamel cloisonné in the centre surrounded by circular satin-brushed motif
•    “Teardrop” hour-markers in 18K/750 210Pd white gold or 5N red gold
•    Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
•    Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock
Hands:
•    18K/750 210Pd white gold or 5N red gold
•    “Assegai-shaped”
Strap:
•    Hand-sewn blue or brown alligator leather, Alcantara lining
•    16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp, in 18K/750 210Pd white gold

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