Thursday, January 29, 2015

CHRISTOPHE CLARET – Aventicum


CHRISTOPHE CLARETAventicum Emperor "Marcus Aurelius" Limited Edition NEW

AVENTICUM
Paying homage to Roman Emperor, Marcus Aurelius

Christophe Claret’s passion for history has inspired him to create Aventicum, a tribute to the capital of ancient Roman Helvetia and to highlight the extraordinary work of the Avenches Roman Museum. In the center of its dial, Aventicum reveals a miniature gold bust of Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. The micro-engraved effigy is particularly three-dimensional thanks to an ingenious optical effect.

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Christophe Claret has always been intrigued by the history of Aventicum, which was the capital of Roman Helvetia for more than 300 years and the ruins of which now lie near the Swiss town of Avenches. Even today at the Aventicum excavation sites, archaeologists continue to unearth precious artefacts dating from this rich era of antiquity. In 2013, Christophe Claret decided to create a three-dimensional film in partnership with Philippe Nicolet and his production company, NVP3D, to document the incredible relics now belonging to the Avenches Roman Museum and the town of Avenches. The advantage of using 3D for a film of this nature becomes evident on the big screen. Displaying the ancient artefacts in three dimensions allows for incomparable detail of even the tiniest objects, giving audiences and researchers alike the opportunity to rediscover the rich history of Aventicum

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Among the excavated objects was a priceless finding: a solid gold bust of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, which was found in 1939 when an old pipe was being cleaned. This precious discovery is one of only three known Roman busts of this style in the world. Other similar statues were most likely melted down and recycled into other objects over the centuries. Due to the museum’s limited exhibition space, many of the ancient Roman capital’s excavated objects cannot be properly displayed for the public. Christophe Claret hopes that his Aventicum-inspired timepiece will help raise awareness about the phenomenal efforts of the Avenches Roman Museum to preserve these vestiges of this ancient civilization. He also wishes to generate support from the Swiss government to construct a new building to conserve and showcase this incredible heritage.

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The ancient capital city’s history, coupled with the 3D film, has served as inspiration for the Aventicum timepiece. A micro-engraved gold replica of the Marcus Aurelius bust can be found in the centre of the dial. Incorporating a technique never before used in the history of watchmaking, the faithful, small-scale representation of the Emperor – measuring less than three millimetres – is displayed in magnified form thanks to a clever invention called the mirascope. 

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The mirascope is comprised of two identical parabolic mirrors arranged one on top of the other, creating an elliptical shape. The convex mirror on top has a hole in the middle. When an object is placed in the centre of the concave bottom mirror, the reflection from the top mirror creates a hologram of the object, which appears nearly two times larger than it actually is. In implementing this optical effect in Aventicum, the bust of Marcus Aurelius looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch. The illusion is so realistic that it is hard to resist attempting to touch the gold sculpture through the sapphire glass, but it would be in vain…

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Aventicum, like all Christophe Claret signature timepieces, epitomizes the highest standards of haute horlogerie embodied by the brand. Developing the technically demanding mirascope to function perfectly took extreme dedication and focus. Months of research and several prototypes were integral to obtaining the desired optical effect. The next critical step was designing and fabricating the hour and minute hands, which had to be reconfigured, as the mirascope was now the centrepiece of the watch. The hands became pointers revolving on an invisible ring around the perimeter of the dial, each equipped with a counterweight to optimize stability. The challenge of creating the hands for Aventicum was to find a material light enough to compensate for the relatively larger – though mainly concealed – size the display mechanism. The solution was to use carbon microfiber, which has an excellent rigidity/weight coefficient.

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Turning over Aventicum, the patented, transparent sapphire-winding rotor of the automatic movement can be admired through the display back. The rotor is embellished with five numbered Roman Gaul racing chariots in full swing of a thrilling competition. Yes, the playful spirit found on many of Claret’s timepieces is apparent yet again, this time in the form of a fun, interactive race: by positioning Aventicum horizontally and performing one or two waving movements, the chariots are jumpstarted in the wake of the rotor’s action, which then stops. The player whose chariot finishes above the “A” of Aurèle (Aurelius), engraved on the periphery, is the winner.  

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Aventicum embraces its Roman heritage, as this great civilization’s artistic influence suffuses the timepiece by way of a number of carefully thought out adornments – like the Roman numerals forming the hours or the labyrinthine motif found on both the dial and back of the watch, encircling the sapphire-winding rotor. As Marcus Aurelius was not only an emperor but also a philosopher, Christophe Claret elected to engrave, in Latin, one of his famous maxims on the back of the watch: “Perfice Omnia facta vitae quasi haec postrema essent”, or “Perform every act in life as though it were your last.” Christophe Claret has licensed the patent from Vianney Halter regarding the relationship between the outer sapphire rotor and its inner bearing.

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Aventicum is available in two limited editions: 68 pieces in 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated, grade 5 titanium; and 38 pieces in palladium-rich white gold and anthracite PVD-treated, grade 5 titanium.

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Technical Specifications

Reference: MTR.FLY11.120-128  Palladium-rich White Gold
Limited edition of 38 pieces
Reference: MTR.FLY11.120-128   5N Red Gold
Limited edition of 68 pieces 

Movement:
CALIBRE FLY15:
 - Diameter: 26.20 mm                                             
 - Height: 3.37 mm (excluding hands)
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 28
Barrels:  Twin barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement:           
Frequency: 4 Hz (28’800 vph)
Swiss lever
Features: 
‘Mystery’ winding rotor in transparent sapphire adorned with 5 high-definition metalized chariots
Functions:
Hour and minute display around chapter ring
Case:
Dimensions: 44 x 52.11 x 18.49 mm
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Material
- Palladium-rich white gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
Hands in carbon fiber
- 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
Hands in carbon fiber
Crown
- White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with cabochon in black PVD titanium
- 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with cabochon in black PVD titanium
Strap
Black alligator leather with black stitching
Features
Mirascope with a micro-engraved bust of Marcus Aurelius
 
Limited edition of 38 pieces   Price in Swiss Francs (ex VAT):  53’000
Limited edition of 68 pieces   Price in Swiss France (ex VAT): 49’000

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Wednesday, January 28, 2015

PANERAI – PAM-516 RADIOMIR 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days ACCIAIO – 48mm



OFFICINE PANERAI PAM-516 RADIOMIR 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days ACCIAIO – 48mm Special Editions NEW

Two new Special Editions created by Officine Panerai with one of the most classic and fascinating astronomical complications, the Equation of Time. P.2002/E manufacture movement, hand-wound with a power reserve of eight days.

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The history of time measurement arose from the human need to arrange events on a dimension which was not solely spatial and, since ancient times, man has found the answers to this need through the study of astronomy. The length of one day is derived from the period of one rotation of the Earth and the length of one year corresponds to the period of one revolution of the Earth around the Sun, and for centuries timepieces have been used to place events in a timeframe defined by these phenomena, establishing the universal convention which is time.

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There is, however, a difference between convention and reality. Because of the elliptical orbit of the Earth round the Sun and the axial tilt of the Earth’s rotation in relation to the equator, the duration of a day measures exactly 24 hours on only four occasions in one year, while on all other days there is a difference between apparent time (solar time) and conventional time (mean time) which varies between being up to about 15 minutes ahead or behind, depending on the time of year. This difference, the measurement of which is one of the classic complications of high quality watchmaking, is called the “equation of time” and it is displayed by a linear indicator on the dial of the new Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days and the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days.

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The inclusion of such a sophisticated complication as the equation of time does not alter the classic Panerai design of the two models, a design inspired directly by the history of the Florentine brand. One of the watches has the Radiomir 1940 case and the other the Luminor 1950 case, the latter being the historical evolution of the former, having the distinctive bridge device with clamping lever which protects the winding crown. Both cases are made of AISI 316L stainless steel – an alloy that is particularly resistant to corrosion – with a polished finish.

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The dial of both models is black with the classic sandwich structure invented by Panerai in the late 1930s: two superimposed discs contain the luminous substance, the light of which emerges through the holes in it corresponding to the markers on the upper disc, providing a unique tonal depth and high legibility. As well as the linear indicator of the equation of time, the dial also contains the seconds counter at nine o’clock, the date window at three o’clock and the circular indicator on which the month can be read.

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On the back of the case is a sapphire crystal window which enables the details and fine finish of the hitherto unissued P.2002/E movement to be admired.

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This is a development of the P.2002 calibre, the first to be made by Officine Panerai in 2005: it is a hand-wound movement with a diameter of 13¾ lignes, with three spring barrels providing the long power reserve of eight days which has been part of the tradition of the brand since the 1940s.

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The Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516) and the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601) are two Special Editions of only 200 and 100 units respectively. Water-resistant to 10 bar (about 100 metres), they are fitted with an alligator strap, and the model with the Luminor 1950 case is supplied with a screwdriver and the tool for replacing the strap.

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Technical Specifications

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MOVEMENT
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.2002/E calibre,
Executed entirely by Panerai,
13 ¾ lignes, 8,30mm thick, 31 jewels, 
28,800 alternations/hour. KIF PARECHOC® anti-shock device. 
Power reserve 8 days. 
328 components.
POWER RESERVE: 192H.
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator,
Equation of time, power reserve indicator on the back
CASE
48 mm, AISI 316L polished steel.
BEZEL
Polished steel.
BACK
See-through sapphire crystal
DIAL
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
Date and month indicator at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, equation of time indicator at 6 o’clock
CRYSTAL
Sapphire, made of corundum, 1.6 mm thick. 
Anti-reflective coating.
WATER-RESISTANCE
10 bar (~ 100 metres).
STRAP
PANERAI Alligator Black, Ecru, STD, 26/22, BDR.
Buckle: Polished steel, 22mm, Luminor 44-47-48 mm and Radiomir 1940 45-47 mm.
Reference: PAM00516.

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