H. Moser x MB&F — STREAMLINER Pandamonium Only Watch 2023

 

H. MOSER & CIE. x MB&F — STREAMLINER Pandamonium Minute Repeater  Only Watch 2023

 MB&F and H. Moser & Cie.
make noise for Only Watch

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A unique Streamliner model

Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan have collaborated for a second time for the Only Watch charity auction organised to raise funds for the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy, co-creating an exceptional one-off piece dedicated to music. 

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Baptised the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium, it features a minute repeater complication led by a miniature DJing panda, a creature that has become the signature of the Only Watch creations by MB&F. At the heart of the Streamliner's case is a three-dimensional movement that has been developed specifically and exclusively for Only Watch. It will not be used in any other models. 

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Acoustically captivating and visually enticing, the minute repeater mechanism can be seen on the fumé dial in a brand-new colourway. Stripped of logos and indices, this dial illustrates the minimalist philosophy of H. Moser & Cie. and showcases the large suspended balance wheel characteristic of MB&F.  With this creation, MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. deliver a masterful mix of their DNAs, rhythmically punctuated with signature elements from each of the two brands. With its rare poetic sophistication, this watch is the height of technical excellence.

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F create a buzz for Only Watch

When Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan join creative forces, it really creates some noise!  Heads of MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. respectively, both independent, family-sized Swiss companies, these two passionate entrepreneurs never do things by half. 

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Following on from their immensely successful previous collaboration, Max and Edouard both wanted to repeat the experience in aid of the fight against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy led by Only Watch. For this second collaboration, just as in 2020, the worlds of the two brands collide, working together for the enrichment of both. For a single one-off piece, MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. move to the same tempo, inviting the public to enjoy an artistic performance dedicated to showcasing sound.  

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To get the audience buzzing and give Only Watch the maximum possible resonance, the two brands decided to create a minute repeater. Returning to the very essence of this complication, they positioned the complex chime mechanism on the dial, allowing the passage of time to be heard whilst the choreography of the hammers and gongs can be simultaneously admired. 

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This ever-moving stage is further animated by the dial, which has been stripped of logos and indices and features a brand-new colourway, Aquamarine fumé. Continuing in this minimalist spirit, so emblematic of H. Moser & Cie., the hours and minutes are displayed directly on the dial via subtly elegant small leaf-shaped hands at 2 o'clock.

Miniature DJ panda

Baptised the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium, this creation refers to the literary capital of hell, Pandemonium – a term which also describes a situation of wild and noisy disorder or confusion. 

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The letter "a" which replaces the "e" is a nod to the miniature panda sculpture that adorns its dial, a creature that has become the signature of the MB&F world, as Max Büsser explains: "Each Only Watch creation is an opportunity for MB&F to see things through the eyes of the children, more specifically those suffering from muscular dystrophy. Our original panda was created as an allegory for Only Watch 2011, and returned in 2021, before now making its third appearance in 2023. 

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This time, it is an invitation to immerse yourself in the world of music and lose all touch with reality for just a few beats". For both MB&F and H. Moser & Cie., the notion of pleasure is essential. In life as in watchmaking, having fun and cultivating the inner child is key. 

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This state of mind comes through in this little DJ panda, made from white gold and sculpted and decorated entirely by hand. Placed alongside the hammers, it seems to be mixing the soundtrack to the meeting between MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. Its turntables are fitted on the axis of the hammers and are driven by the rotation of the mechanism as it operates. 

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At a height of just 5.35 mm, this miniature took countless hours of precision work to create, from the design and development phase, to modelling then manufacturing, followed by time at the hands of the engraver, then the jeweller for the final polishing – not forgetting the meticulous painting. 

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This was a true technical and artistic feat due to the tiny scale of its elements, such as the muzzle, which measures 0.99 mm, or the turntables, featuring a paw print, with an outer diameter of 1.75 mm and measuring just 0.35 mm thick.

Flying balance wheel and double hairspring

Taken from the Legacy Machine range, a large suspended balance wheel occupies centre stage. This beating heart represents the very essence of watchmaking in the eyes of Max Büsser, and features a double hairspring produced by Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie.'s sister company. 

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Thanks to this pair of perfectly matched hairsprings, the movement of the point of gravity on each spring when it expands is corrected, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism in continual pursuit of perfection. In addition, the paired hairsprings also reduce the effect of friction normally experienced with a single hairspring, improving isochronism. 

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Hypnotic in its movements, this balance wheel posed an additional challenge as the gongs had to be bent in two places to allow them to pass over the balance wheel bridge. Occupying three dimensions, the shaped gongs feature a flat coil and an upper coil, positioned one on top of the other.

Ingenuity devoted to enhancing sound

Within a steel frame on an integrated bracelet, the cushion-shaped case is topped with a domed sapphire crystal. It is water-resistant to 5 ATM. Preserving the proportions and signature curves of the Streamliner collection was no mean feat. 

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The sliding bolt, used to activate the minute repeater mechanism and fitted on a Teflon runner to ensure it slides perfectly smoothly, is built into the main plate to save space. The case middle has been completely hollowed out in order to accommodate the movement while allowing enough space to create a soundbox. 

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This amplifies the chiming of hours, quarter-hours and minutes by two gongs, onto which fall two hammers that are raised based on information provided by different feeler-spindles. The geometry of the case has been meticulously designed, developed and adapted to maximise the properties of steel and enhance its impact, whilst allowing the essential walls to form part of the resonance. 

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Steel has a relatively high elastic modulus, which means that this material deforms very little under stress and is consequently more rigid than gold; it retains the vibratory energy from sound well, rather than allowing it to dissipate thanks to its low damping effect. 

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While ensuring the functioning of the minute repeater mechanism was already a complex technical feat, it also required perfect understanding of the subject to achieve a beautiful sound that combines amplitude, a certain length and a pure note.
 

Like a three-dimensional sculpture
Driving this exceptional creation is the three-dimensional hand-wound HMC 906 calibre, which has been partially skeletonised to allow certain key components of the mechanism to be admired. As it was not possible to case up this movement from underneath, as it usually would be, the assembly concept had to be redesigned. To be able to integrate the calibre from the top of the case, a removable bezel was created. In addition to the fact that it opens up the required access, it also makes the case larger, which is beneficial for the sound.  

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Beating at 18,000 vibrations/hour, the calibre HMC 906 guarantees a minimum power reserve of 54 hours. It features highly contemporary finishes, with anthracite grey rhodium-plating on the bridges and the main plate, and the famous horizontal double Moser stripes.   

A collaboration between friends
In conclusion, Edouard Meylan emphasises: "A successful mix of two sets of expertise and DNA which mutually enrich one another, the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium model is a one-off piece resulting from a unique development process, featuring a unique movement and a unique dial, created especially for Only Watch, and providing us with the opportunity to excel ourselves for a good cause". There is no doubt that this model will create a buzz amongst collectors and lovers of Haute Horologie alike. It will be part of the international Only Watch event, which culminates in the auction on 5th November. Edouard Meylan and Max Büsser extend an invitation to all music lovers out there. On your marks! Get ready! Mix! 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  STREAMLINER   “Pandamonium ”

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Model name:  H. Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium Steel model, Aquamarine fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet, unique piece

Ref: 6906-1200
 

Engine
Partly skeletonised, three-dimensional hand-wound HMC 906 Manufacture calibre
Balance wheel: specific model with a diameter of 14 mm, equipped with four traditional setting screws, floating above the movement
Diameter: 33.0 mm or 141/2 lignes
Height (excluding balance wheel): 10.55 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
37 jewels
395 components
Power reserve: minimum 54 hours
Straumann® double hairspring
Bridges and main plate with anthracite grey rhodium-plating
Horizontal double Moser stripes on the plate and bridges
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated 
Case
Steel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height with sapphire crystal: 17.0 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 12.7 mm
Sliding bolt with runner made from Teflon
Screw-down crown, adorned with a panda paw print
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions
Hours and minutes
Minute repeater with hour, quarter-hour and minute chimes
Large balance wheel suspended above the dial
Dial
Aquamarine fumé dial with sunburst pattern Perfect mix of H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F DNA 
Aquamarine fumé dial with sunburst pattern
Hammers and chimes on dial side
Micro panda sculpture in white gold decorated entirely by hand, with turntables and mixing desk, at 10 o'clock
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands at 2 o'clock
Bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet
Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser hallmark

Specificities:
The H. Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium is a unique piece featuring a one-off movement, designed exclusively for Only Watch.

 🔰Edition
Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch 2023

 🔴Prices    Lot 28      Estimated at CHF 300,000 - CHF 400,000 💰

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www.OnlyWatch.co

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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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www.MBandF.com 

 MB&F

After a 15-year career in management at prestigious brands, Maximilian Büsser left his role as CEO of Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. MB&F is a laboratory dedicated to art and micromechanical engineering, set up to design and create small editions of radical watches, the fruit of collaboration with exceptional professional watchmakers, chosen by Maximilian Büsser for their talent and working methods.
In 2007, MB&F unveiled the HM1, its first Horological Machine. With its sculptural three-dimensional case and finely decorated movement, the HM1 set the tone for the Horological Machines that were to follow – Machines which symbolise time rather than merely Machines used to read it. In 2011, MB&F released the Legacy Machines collection. These round pieces are more classic than MB&F's other creations, and pay tribute to the watchmaking excellence of the 19th century, reinterpreting the complications from innovative key watchmaking figures as objects of contemporary art.

H. Moser & Cie

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs more than 80 people, has developed 16 in-house calibres to date and produces around 2,000 watches per annum. Through its sister company Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. Independent company incorporated into Moser Watch Holding in 2012, Precision Engineering AG specialises in watch components for escapements, from their initial design to the production of a quality product ready to be integrated into the watch movement it must regulate. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.

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Press release - 2023
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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www.H-Moser.com

MB&F – Legacy Machine LMX Paris Edition

MB&F – Legacy Machine LMX Paris Edition 2023

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 LMX
THE LEGACY OF A DECADE

In 2023, MB&F brings back a beautiful new edition of its LMX timepiece, featuring a stunning purple dial plate encased in a complementary white gold case. The LMX Paris Edition will be exclusively available at the Parisian MB&F LAB on Rue Saint-Honoré and limited to 15 pieces.

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“If I were to give a name to the LMX Paris Edition, I would undoubtedly call it the ‘LMX Deep Purple’ in reference to the famous 1968 rock group – this piece is definitely rock ’n’ roll!”, says Laurent Picciotto, founder of Chronopassion and owner of the MB&F LAB in Paris.

MEET THE “X”

In the MB&F universe, X has a special significance, based on the Roman numeral for 10. It signals a 10th anniversary, like the HM3 FrogX (2020) marking a decade of the totemic HM3, or HMX (2015), which headlined the 10th year of MB&F. 

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But X is more than an ancient alternative to the Arabic numeral 10. In algebra, X is the unsolved variable; in cartography, X is the desired destination. X represents the indescribable, the unexplainable and the uncategorisable; it symbolises everything we do not know – yet.

PRESENTING LMX, CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF LEGACY MACHINES

Back in October 2011, MB&F had just launched Legacy Machine N°1, the first creation of a new collection, alongside the existing Horological Machines; one creative lab, two interpretations of time-telling. LMX returns to the earliest encounter with the Legacy Machine collection, utilising the same expression comprising a central flying balance wheel and two dials, although everything else is different.

TWO INDEPENDENT TIME ZONES ON TILTED DIALS

Those familiar with MB&F’s very first Legacy Machine will instinctively know how LMX operates. Two dials of stretched white lacquer, each with its own display of hours and minutes. The dial on the right is set by the crown at the 2 o’clock position, which bears an engraving of the MB&F battle-axe and also winds the movement. 

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The crown at 10 o’clock, engraved with a globe to acknowledge the potential use of a second time zone, sets the time of the left dial. Unlike the first Legacy Machines however, both dials are tilted at an angle – a more complex feature present on the most recent Legacy Machines, requiring the transfer of energy from horizontal to vertical planes thanks to conical gears.

APPARENT MECHANICS UNDER A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL DOME

While the first few Legacy Machines took a selective approach to what was showcased between dial plate and sapphire crystal dome, later models such as LM Perpetual, LM FlyingT and LM Thunderdome were more open and demonstrative about their mechanical prowess.  

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LMX follows this latter approach, revealing functional elements such as the battle-axe-shaped escapement bridge and gear-train components. Three large wheels are particularly visible: placed next to each winding crown, two are set in motion when setting the time on the corresponding time display, while the gear at 6 o’clock is the common seconds’ wheel.

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Of particular note is the new bespoke balance wheel, a 13.4mm behemoth with inertia blocks that marks a departure from the more traditional screwed balances and offers greater accuracy to the watchmaker in regulating the heart of LMX. 

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Other refinements include the polished arms of the straight bridges exposed on the dial plate, manually finished to impart a curved, or bercé, profile on their upper surfaces.

HEMISPHERICAL 7-DAY POWER RESERVE INDICATOR

In another nod to the world-first vertical power reserve indicator of Legacy Machine No1, LMX builds on this slice of MB&F history, with a completely novel three-dimensional display that showcases the engine’s impressive seven days (168 hours) of power reserve. 

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In this evolved display, there is the option to select between two modes of counting down the power reserve. Two markers are positioned on opposite sides of a hemisphere; one framed by an arched scale numbered 1 to 7, another with a scale showing the days of the week.

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This complex and completely novel interplay of components is given an additional level of intricacy, by the rotation of the entire power-reserve display itself. This allows wearers to choose their preferred mode of power-reserve indication: by continuing to wind the battle-axe crown even after the power reserve is fully replenished, wearers can adjust the orientation of the indication in order to make the day-of-the-week or numeric scale more visible when LMX is on the wrist.

SYMMETRICAL MOVEMENT CONSTRUCTION

Like a perfectly balanced X, the engine of LMX is deeply symmetrical – not only dial-side but also as observed through the sapphire case back, revealing the three barrels placed evenly around the centre, accentuated by the sunray pattern of the Côtes de Genève finishing. A treat for those who can read the language of watch movements, who can discern expert intent and refined purpose behind the placement of each component.

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The X in LMX is more than just a symbol for symmetry, or another way to indicate the numeral 10. LMX is the crossroads where the first and second decades of the Legacy Machine Collection meet.

Four limited editions form the LMX collection:
- 18 pieces in 18K red gold with black NAC treatment on plates and bridges;
- 33 pieces in grade 5 titanium with green CVD treatment on plates and bridges;
- 33 “Steel & Brass” pieces in 316L stainless steel with a frosted face.
- And in 2023, a new limited variation of 15 pieces; the LMX Paris Edition, in white gold with a beautiful sunray purple dial.
LMX

10 YEARS OF LEGACY MACHINES

In October 2011, people thought they knew what MB&F stood for. Four Horological Machines had been launched, each one more audacious than the last. MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser decided it was time to do something different – again. How does one go about disrupting a habit of iconoclasm? By turning to history, but not a history that we recognised. The MB&F Horological Machines came from an imagined future, so it was only natural that the Legacy Machines drew from an imagined past. Expressed differently: what would MB&F have created a century ago, during the golden age of watchmaking?

ROUND CASES, LACQUERED DIALS…AND “FLYING” BALANCE

As always with MB&F, the Legacy Machine No1 movement was the result of collaboration – in this case with two exceptional Friends, two horology stars as talented as they are different: Jean-François Mojon, known for his innovative engineering, and Kari Voutilainen, a living legend of classic watchmaking.

LM1 featured a round case – a first for MB&F – along with white lacquered dials, blued hands, and a hallucinatory “flying” balance wheel, plucked from its expected rear-mounted location and suspended like a sky-hovering extra-terrestrial visitor, oscillating under a domed crystal. While Horological Machines 1 through 4 were exuberant flights of imagination, Legacy Machine N°1 was a triumph of reimagination. By harnessing the design conventions of traditional watchmaking to form this singularly defiant configuration of a watch movement, LM1 turned out to be MB&F’s most subversive creation since the company’s inception in 2005.

The mesmeric spectacle of the suspended balance became a conceptual and mechanical leitmotiv that defined the Legacy Machine collection — illustrating how a watch could simultaneously be a part of and apart from traditional watchmaking.

AN AWARD-WINNING, GROUND-BREAKING COLLECTION

Subsequent Legacy Machines followed this blueprint of brilliant unorthodoxy: with LMX and the LM Sequential EVO launched in 2022, an impressive series of no less than NINE world-premiere calibres. Conceived with another exceptionally talented Friend, Stephen McDonnell, LM Perpetual (2015) brought about a fundamental reengineering of the revered perpetual calendar complication, while the LM Sequential EVO features a ground-breaking dual chronograph system. LM FlyingT (2019) embodied a novel vision of feminine watchmaking — fierce yet elegant, stark yet complex. LM Thunderdome (2019), developed with multi-axis tourbillon expert Eric Coudray, set a new world record with the dizzying speed of its TriAx mechanism. In parallel to these prestigious collaborations, MB&F began conceiving its own movements during this decade; the LMX engine is the sixth fully conceived by MB&F’s in-house engineering team, a considerable achievement for a brand born in the new millennium.

Many did not realise in 2011 how risky this was, but MB&F took a chance on its fledgling brand identity by introducing a Machine that leaned closer to the aesthetic milieu of almost every other watch company out there. Comparing an MB&F to other timepieces was now possible… But great risk often comes with great reward. The Legacy Machine collection has received widespread acclaim over the years, chief among them six awards from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – including the “Aiguille d’Or” in 2022 – the industry’s ultimate accolade.

Have Legacy Machines changed the MB&F Horological lab of 2011? Profoundly. When LM1 surprised the watchmaking world in 2011, industry experts predicted that MB&F would radically shift its entire production (and sales) to the more consensual aesthetics offered by Legacy Machines. That did not happen: the unconventional Horological Machines continue to represent an essential part of MB&F’s production… but 11 years later, watch collectors have naturally also embraced the more classic-minded Legacy Machines – which have gained their own very significant place. MB&F continues to evolve in both directions, seemingly quite different, but always with a fierce sense of independence and creativity.

2011 – 2023
LEGACY MACHINE MILESTONES

• 2011    After four unconventional Horological Machines, MB&F surprises the watchmaking world by launching Legacy Machine No1, inaugurating a new collection of more classic timepieces.
• 2012    LM1 wins not just one but two awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: the Public Prize (voted for by watch enthusiasts) and Best Men’s Watch Prize (voted for by the professional jury).
• 2013    Legacy Machine No2: two years after the first Legacy Machine, LM2 demonstrates that MB&F is committed to developing the Legacy Machine collection, with a complex timepiece revisiting the works of famous watchmakers on double regulator systems.
• 2014     The Legacy Machine collection welcomes its first “Performance Art” piece: a collaboration with Chinese artist Xia Hang, who reinterprets the vertical power reserve indicator of LM1.
• With Legacy Machine 101, MB&F focuses on the essentials of a mechanical wristwatch; the LM101 movement is also the first entirely conceived by MB&F’s in-house engineering team.
• 2015    MB&F teams up with Stephen McDonnell to reinvent the traditional perpetual calendar mechanism. The result is the ground-breaking Legacy Machine Perpetual, offering reliability and user-friendliness.
• 2016    The Legacy Machines welcome a second Performance Art piece: the LM1 Silberstein, created with the famous French designer Alain Silberstein.

    At the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Best Calendar Watch Prize goes to the LM Perpetual.

• 2017    Again with Stephen McDonnell, MB&F presents the LM Split Escapement (LM SE), showcasing the beauty of the flying balance wheel and the split escapement initially conceived for the LM Perpetual.
• 2019    In March, MB&F chooses the Legacy Machine collection to launch its first timepiece dedicated to women, the LM FlyingT.

    In November, the Legacy Machine collection wins a fourth Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award: the LM FlyingT wins the Best Ladies’ Complication Prize.

    In December, MB&F and famed watchmaker Eric Coudray break a world record with the LM Thunderdome, the world’s fastest triple-axis regulator.

• 2020    MB&F and fellow independent brand H. Moser & Cie innovate with a unique two-way collaboration, resulting in the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser and the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F.

    MB&F and Eddy Jaquet, one of the watchmaking industry’s most talented master engravers, present a series of 8 unique pieces of the LM Split Escapement, inspired by the novels of Jules Verne.

    MB&F chooses the Legacy Machine collection to present another important evolution: its first timepiece sporting the “EVO” suffix, designed for more active, everyday use. The LM Perpetual EVO “is not just a watch for sports, it is a watch for life”.

• 2021    Launch of LMX, celebrating 10 years of Legacy Machines. Echoing the traits of LM1 but in an entirely new execution, LMX features two time zones and a three-dimensional power reserve, while the tilted dials and sleek case design take from the LM FlyingT and LM Thunderdome.

• 2022    Launch of the LM Sequential EVO, the brand’s first ever chronograph, conceived with Stephen McDonnell. The piece incorporates two column-wheel chronographs and a groundbreaking “Twinverter” binary switch, allowing multiple timing modes including split-second and lap timer modes – a combination never seen before in chronograph. The piece won the industry’s ultimate prize the very same year, the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: LMX Edition

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LMX is available in four limited editions:
- 18 pieces in polished 18K 5N+ red gold with black NAC treatment on plates and bridges;
- 33 pieces in polished grade 5 titanium with green CVD treatment on plates and bridges;
- 33 “Steel & Brass” pieces in 316L stainless steel with frosted face;
- 15 pieces in polished 18K white gold with a purple sunray dial.

Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively by MB&F
Manual winding with three mainspring barrels
Power reserve: 7 days (168 hours)
Balance wheel: new bespoke 13.4mm balance wheel with inertia blocks, floating above the movement
Time display on two inclined dials in stretched lacquer
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 367
Number of jewels: 41
Chatons: gold chatons with diamond countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings; polished arms of the straight bridges exposed on the dial plate, manually finished to a curved “bercé” profile on their upper surfaces; frosted face for the “Steel & Brass” edition.
Functions
Hours and minutes: completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials.
Unique hemispherical power reserve with choice of weekday or 7-day indication; rotates to adjust the preferred power reserve indication.
Left crown at 10 o'clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 2 o'clock for setting time of right dial and winding.
Case
Four editions: 18K 5N+ red gold case limited to 18 pieces, grade 5 titanium case limited to 33 pieces, 316L stainless steel case limited to 33 pieces or 18K white gold case limited to 15 pieces.
Dimensions: 44 x 21.4 mm
Number of components: 27
Sapphire crystals
High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Strap & Buckle
Black hand-stitched alligator strap with 5N+ gold folding buckle for red gold version, grey hand-stitched alligator strap with titanium folding buckle for titanium edition, brown hand-stitched alligator strap with stainless steel folding buckle for steel version and grey hand-stitched alligator strap with purple lining and white gold folding buckle for the white gold edition.


« FRIENDS » RESPONSIBLE FOR LMX

Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Product design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
R&D: Thomas Lorenzato, Joey Miserez, Julien Peter, Pierre-Alexandre Gamet and Robin Cotrel / MB&F
Methods and laboratory: Maël Mendel and Anthony Mugnier / MB&F

Wheels, pinions and axis: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode, Paul-André Tendon / Bandi, Daniel Gumy / Decobar Swiss, Gimmel Rouages, Atokalpa and Le Temps Retrouvé
Plates and bridges: Benjamin Signoud / Amecap, Rodrigue Baume / Horlofab, 2B8 and MB&F
Balance wheel: Marc Bolis / Atokalpa
Springs and jumpers: Alain Pellet / Elefil Swiss
Mainspring and barrel: Stéphane Schwab / Schwab Feller
Rubies: Pierhor / Crelier
Hand-engraving of movement: Glypto
Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C.-L. Rochat, DSMI
Dial plate decoration : DM Surfaces
Case decoration : Bripoli, FIFAJ Horlogerie,Termin’hor
PVD- treatment: Pierre-Albert Steinmann / Positive Coating
Gold ingots CoC (Chain of Custody): Jean Philippe Chételat / Cendres et Métaux Lux
Movement assemblage : Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre , Henri Porteboeuf and Mathieu Lecoultre / MB&F
In-house machining: Alain Lemarchand, Jean-Baptiste Prétot and Romain Camplo / MB&F
After-sales service: Antony Moreno / MB&F
Quality control: Cyril Fallet and Jennifer Longuepez / MB&F
Dials: Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval / La Montre Hermès SA
Hands: Waeber HMS
Crowns : Boninchi
Anti-reflection treatment for sapphire crystals: Anthony Schwab / Econorm
Buckle: G&F Châtelain
Strap: Multicuirs
Presentation box: Olivier Berthon / Soixanteetonze
Logistics and production: David Lamy, Ashley Moussier, Fanny Boutier, Mélanie Ataide, Thibaut Joannard, Maryline Leveque, Emilie Burnier and Thi-Kim Phy Pham  / MB&F

Marketing & Communication: Charris Yadigaroglou, Vanessa André, Arnaud Légeret, Paul Gay and Talya Lakin / MB&F
Graphic design: Sidonie Bays / MB&F
M.A.D.Gallery: Hervé Estienne and Margaux Dionisio Cera / MB&F
Sales: Thibault Verdonckt, Virginie Marchon, Cédric Roussel, Jean-Marc Bories and Augustin Chivot / MB&F
Texts: Suzanne Wong / Worldtempus
Product photography: Laurent-Xavier Moulin, David Carteron and Stéphane de Bourgies
Film: Marc-André Deschoux / MAD LUX, Manouil Karapetsis et Dominik Lang / Brosky Media
Portrait photography: Régis Golay / Federal
Website: Stéphane Balet / Idéative

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Press release - 2023
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
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MB&F – Legacy Machine Perpetual 44 mm

MB&F – Legacy Machine Perpetual Steel 44 mm 2023

Reinventing the perpetual calendar

First launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual has been since crafted in red gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, yellow gold and palladium. In 2023, a new variation joins the family – the LM Perpetual Stainless Steel, carrying a rich salmon-coloured plate. The steel and salmon combination being a first for MB&F. The new edition also inherits the ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO editions.

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Beginning with a blank sheet of paper, MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell have completely reinvented that most traditional of horological complications: the perpetual calendar. The result is Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring a visually stunning in-house movement – developed from the ground up to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars.

The fact that the new complication looks sensational and can be fully appreciated dial-side is just one of the many benefits offered by the new movement, controlled by a mechanical processor.

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LM Perpetual features a fully integrated 581-component calibre − no module, no base movement − with a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

The perpetual calendar is one of the great traditional complications, calculating the apparently random complexity of the varying numbers of days in each month − including the 29 days in February during leap years. But traditional perpetual calendars do have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements.

The fully integrated, purpose-built movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed from scratch for trouble-free use: no more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes, so no problems there either!

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Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically "delete" superfluous dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

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LM Perpetual turns the traditional perpetual calendar system on its head by using a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional space-consuming grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

With its open dial revealing the full complication and suspended balance, it's the harmonious mechanical beauty of LM Perpetual that really steals the show. And in an interesting technical twist, that eye-catching balance hovering on high is connected to the escapement on the back of the movement by what is likely to be the world's longest balance staff.

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Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the subdials appear to "float" above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised subdials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.

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Taking a clockwise tour of the dial, at 12 o'clock we see the hours and minutes nestled between the elegant arches of the balance; day of the week at 3 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock, month at 6 o'clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o'clock, and date at 9 o'clock.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual won the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2016.

INSPIRATION AND REALISATION

The Legacy Machine collection was conceived when MB&F owner and creative director Maximilian Büsser started fantasising. "What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear, and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but Grendizers, Star Wars, and fighter jets would not have been around for my inspiration. But I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower, and Jules Verne, so what might my 1900s machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional." The result of this was Legacy Machine No.1, first launched in 2011 – followed later by LM2 and LM101.

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The LM Perpetual project began with a meeting between Maximilian Büsser and Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. McDonnell had been a long-time Friend of the brand and played an instrumental role in the realisation of MB&F's very first timepiece, Horological Machine No.1. As Büsser was thinking of developing a perpetual calendar for the fourth watch in the Legacy Machine collection, McDonnell replied that he had an idea for a perpetual calendar that addresses many of the drawbacks associated with conventional examples.

Three years and a great many sleepless nights later, Legacy Machine Perpetual was born.

CONVENTIONAL PERPETUAL CALENDARS

Conventional perpetual calendars are generally modules comprising the complication, which is fitted on top of an existing movement. The calendar indications are synchronised by a long lever (in French: grand levier) running across the top of the complication and passing through the centre. As the date changes, this long lever transmits information to the appropriate components and mechanisms by moving backwards and forwards.

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The existence of the grand levier means that there can be nothing in the centre of the complication that might impede it – like a suspended balance with its staff running right down through the centre of the movement to an escapement on the back.

This lever also means that perpetual calendars require a full dial, which may have cut-outs or windows, as it is impossible to support subdials with studs because they would block the motion of the big lever mechanism.

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In the traditional grand levier system, perpetual calendars assume that, by default, all months have 31 days. At the end of months with less than 31 days, the mechanism quickly skips through the superfluous dates before arriving at the 1st of the new month. Any manipulation or adjustment of the date during changeover can result in damage to the mechanism, requiring expensive repairs by the manufacturer. The dates can also jump or skip during changeover, negating the whole point of the perpetual calendar in the first place, which is not requiring adjustment for years. Or decades.

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"I call perpetual calendars boomerang watches because they come back for repair so often,” says Maximilian Büsser. “The mechanisms jam, block, break, or jump days when they shouldn't."

MECHANICAL PROCESSOR

Legacy Machine Perpetual uses a “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks. This revolutionary processor takes the default number of days in the month at 28 – because, logically, all months have at least 28 days – and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days. There is no "skipping over" redundant days, so there is no possibility of the date jumping incorrectly.

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Using a planetary cam, the mechanical processor also enables a quick setting of the year so that it displays correctly in the four-year leap year cycle, whereas traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms require the user to scroll through up to 47 months to arrive at the right month and year.
 

The mechanical processor also enables an inbuilt safety feature that disconnects the quickset pushers during the date changeover, eliminating any risk of damage while the date is changing.

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While the conception and development of this mechanical processor-controlled perpetual calendar complication is a noteworthy achievement in itself, Stephen McDonnell went even further by managing to place all 581 components of the movement in virtually the same-sized case as LM1.

OPENING UP A NEW WORLD OF PERPETUAL CALENDAR AESTHETICS

Doing away with the calendar’s big lever has allowed for completely new aesthetics not possible when conventional systems are in use. MB&F’s mechanical processor enables the centre of the complication to be used, thereby saving space and allowing design freedom as the full dial is no longer necessary.

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Legacy Machine Perpetual takes advantage of its fully integrated movement to place the perpetual calendar mechanism on top of the movement main plate so that it can be appreciated from above. Legibility is often an issue with perpetual calendars due to the sheer number of indications, and LM Perpetual addresses this by using skeletonised subdials (except for the time indication) that appear to float above the complication with no apparent support from below.

BALANCE ABOVE, ESCAPEMENT BELOW

In yet another innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual uses what is likely to be the world's longest balance wheel pinion to connect that elegantly suspended balance, hovering above the top of the movement, to the escapement on the back of the movement. Ensuring the practicality and reliability of this approach was essential before any other development work began.

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While the view through the display back is animated by the escapement, it's the spectacular hand-finishing of the bridges and plates that really captivates the eye.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: Legacy Machine Perpetual 

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- Stainless steel with salmon face.

 
Legacy Machine Perpetual is available in three variations:

- in platinum 950 with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
- in 18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces);
- in 18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces);
- in 18k white gold with dark grey face;
- in grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces);
- in 18k yellow gold with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
- in palladium 950 with aquamarine face (limited to 25 pieces);
- in stainless steel with salmon face.

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Screw down crown
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicator
Case
Material: Stainless steel 

Available in three variations:  

18k 5N+ red gold, 18k white gold, 18k 3N yellow gold,  

Platinum 950, grade 5 Titanium  or Palladium 950.
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 70 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
Black, grey, brown or blue hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum / titanium or stainless steel folding buckle matching case material.


---------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2023
----------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - MBandF
-----------------------------------------------
For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.MBandF.com