F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition Award 2023

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition Award 2023

 

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Young Talent Competition Awarding to the winner 2023 at the F.P.Journe Manufacture in Geneva: Alexandre Hazemann, France, for his watch AH.02 Signature.

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmakers in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organises the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

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 Michael Tay, Alexandre Hazemann and François-Paul Journe.

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realisation, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction.

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The 2023 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

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The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2023 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

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A.Hazemann – AH.02 Signature

 

Age 23 - Pontarlier - France

Graduated from Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, France - July 2022

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AH.02 Signature and Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto

Introduction

For the 7th year of watchmaking studies at the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, we are asked to create a school watch. The subject imposed this year was to create a watch with a striking mechanism at the passage of the hours with a display of the hour in instantaneous jump. In addition to the technical constraints, our creative approach had to answer a philosophical question: "What do we need to be happy?”

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So it was natural that I turned to the theme of passion. I built the general design of the project on different axes: balance, lightness, pure watchmaking art. AH.02 Signature is inspired by a deep and sincere reflection that gave birth to a rich and sourced creative thought.

History

This project was realised in collaboration with my long-time friend Victor Monnin. Over the years of studying together, we have come to understand the importance of teamwork. We share a philosophy, a "mindset" similar to that of two brothers. 

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  Victor Monnin

 

Moreover, our skills complemented each other perfectly. Victor is more involved in project management and organisation, as well as in the machining of components. As for me, I have more facility for the watchmaking construction, the watchmaking calculations which ensue from it as well as the prototyping.

Realisation of the project

This adventure took place from October 4, 2021 to June 10, 2022. Chronologically, we started by making sketches including the design of the watches from October to November. We then moved on to computer design and watchmaking calculations from December to January. Then, we manufactured all the components during 2 months, from February to the end of March. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto

  

I should specify that we made all the parts except for the glass, the bracelet and the basic movement. The components were manufactured with traditional machines (milling machines, pointing machines...) but also with CNC. The movement LJP6900 was delivered in trays, with only the various pointings and millings carried out. We then had to finish cutting the bridges and the plate.

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The following month was reserved for prototyping and reliability. This stage was for me the most complex. The goal was to find and solve the problems one by one in order to obtain a functional watch, capable of keeping time with impeccable precision. We then made the entire stainless steel case on a traditional machine to accommodate the double complication movement.

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May was reserved for the finishing. I made the satin finishing of the bridge and of the faces with a cabron, the sandblasting of the plate... Finally, I had to find the suppliers to make the electroplating (Ruthenium anthracite). 

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Alexandre Hazemann

To end, I made the final assembly to have the watch finished and functional for the beginning of June. It took us almost 8 months and more than 1,200 hours of work to complete our project in its entirety. The pace was very fast (about 15 hours per day) without any break.

How it works

A striking hour function differs significantly from a quarter repeater. Moreover, considering the synchronisation of the mechanisms, it is necessary to explain the principle of the instantaneous jumping hour.

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A striking hour emits one sound per hour. We have chosen to link the jump of the hammer to the jump of the hour. To do this, we used a lever that performs 3 actions for the same cycle. The first action is to constantly stay in contact with the hour cam in the center of the movement. 

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Then, for the jump of the hours, a finger fixed on the lever drives the star wheel when the lever falls on the cam. Finally, for the third action, the lever arms the hammer in its ascending arc and then releases it when the cam jumps to let it strike with all its inertia against the gong.

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We have also developed a unidirectional time setting system which allows the rotation of the cam in one direction only, which makes it impossible to break it. A retractable pinion is installed between the timer and the first time setting gear. In the event that the user corrects the time in the wrong direction, the pinion will retract and rotate freely.

Conclusion

 

This creation meant a lot to us and we wanted to end our 7 years of study in the most beautiful way. Through this adventure, we wanted to transform this school project into a professional project and thus make it a springboard for our career. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto

 

With my friend Victor Monnin, we decided that one day, we will create our independent workshop to produce these two striking watches. We know that the road is long and tortuous and that everything remains to be done. 

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Monnin L’Immortale 
📸 Photographer Marc Gysin @marcgysinphoto

 

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www.thehourglass.com
 

The mission of The Hour Glass is to advance watch culture. They are known for their thoughtfully curated selection of brands, their passion in designing uniquely immersive retail experiences and their team of highly knowledgeable watch specialists. The Hour Glass strives to become the primary port of call for all enthusiasts and watch collectors alike. Everyday across their combined network of over 50 boutiques in the Asia Pacific region, they are poised to further the awareness and appreciation of watches and ready to guide their clients in their hunt for a superlative timepiece

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collaboration / Partnerships

Model: AH.02 Signature

Movement
Caliber: LJP6900 re-worked / Automatic movement
14.8 lines - 34 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 V/h (4 Hz)
Unidirectional time setting
Fully manufactured complications
Striking hour - Instantaneous jumping hour
Power reserve: 50 hours
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm / Height: 12.8 mm
Weight: 120 g
Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Custom made sapphire crystal - Swiss made  
Dial
Skeleton  
Strap
Bespoke strap made in France: Blue alligator

 

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Press release - 2023
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www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com 

F.P.Journe – OCTA Automatique Unique Piece for Action Innocence

F.P.Journe – Limited SERIES OCTA Automatique Platinum 40mm Exclusive Amethyst Dial Unique Piece for Action Innocence 2023

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The Manufacture F.P.Journe donated a unique piece, an Automatique presented with an exclusive dial specially made for the Action Innocence.

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Action Innocence was founded in Geneva in 1999 by Mrs. Valérie Wertheimer. Its first mission was to point out the emerging abuses of the Internet and to denounce what was being prepared in terms of pedocriminality. The Foundation has developed and given free of charge to interested police services an AntiPedoFiles tracking software that has allowed the arrest of thousands of individuals consuming child pornography material. 

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One of the first actions was to develop a prevention programme targeting children, informing them of various risks surrounding the Internet : coming across disturbing and/or illegal images ; the disclosure of personal data ; meeting the wrong kind of people ; sexting ; cyber-bullying, Internet addiction. More recently, the Foundation has decided to tackle the premature exposure of children to screens, the effects of which are worrying for childcare professionals who are noticing worrying behaviors in their practices: delayed speech development, difficulty relating to other children, attention span deficit, poor fine motor skills, lack of interest in traditional games.

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Varnished, lacquered, honed and polished by hand, the dial of this unique Automatique echoes the same themes as those of the Tourbillon Souverain, élégante and Chronomètre Optimum which were gifted to Action Innocence in 2015 and 2017. As for the hours, minutes and seconds, they are displayed on the off-center dial in whitened guilloche Silver secured by a polished Steel circle, while the instantaneous date is revealed through a large window for enhanced legibility.

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The bidding for this Automatique started at CHF 45,000. After a fierce battle between several collectors, it was finally sold for CHF 1’000’000. The funds collected will be used by the Action Innocence Foundation to support concrete actions for the protection of children.

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The uncluttered design of an F.P.Journe timepiece always reflects the highest level of technical innovation. At the heart of the 40 mm Platinum case, the Octa 1300.3 automatic caliber offers chronometric precision during 120 hours and an exceptional 160-hour power reserve for great comfort of use. 

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Its off-center 22K 5N Gold rotor turns unidirectionally and exploits each slightest movement of the wrist to ensure an optimal winding of the watch. The sapphire glass caseback emphasizes the magnificent 18K rose Gold mechanism as well as the subtle decorations and watchmaking finishes executed by the Manufacture's craftsmen.

 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

 
Collection   Limited SERIES 

Model:  OCTA Automatique Unique Piece for Action Innocence

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Movement
Exclusive F.P.Journe calibre 1300.3
Unidirectional automatic winding
Movement in 18K rose Gold
Dimensions of the movement
Total diameter: 30.80 mm
Casing-up diameter 30.40 mm
Overall height: 5.70 mm
Height of winding system: 3.00 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm
Balance
Four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder / Free-sprung
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600v/h (3Hz)
Inertia:       10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: >300° -
                  120h dial up: >280°
Main characteristics
Three position crown
Winding of the watch in position 0, clockwise
Correction of date in position 1, anti clockwise
Correction of the moon in position 1, clockwise
Correction of time in position 2
Instantaneous jump calendar
Off-centre winding rotor
Barrel with slipping spring
Escapement 15-tooth
Indications
Central hours and minutes

• Small second at 4h30
• Large date
• Power reserve indicator at 9h00

Autonomy
120 hours +- 2 h.
Winding speed on watch winder: 274 rotations / 24 Hours
Decoration
Circular Cotes de Genève on bridges
Partly circular graining on base plate
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Chamfered and circular grained wheels
Steel components hand polished and chamfered
Case
Platinum PT 950
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Total Height: 10.60 mm
Special Commemorative Gold Dial
Amethyst blue with numerals in white Gold with logos F.P.Journe
Number of parts
Jewels: 39
Movement without dial: 292
Cased up on leather strap: 329
Strap
Blue alligator straps

Limitation
Limited Edition to Unique only 1 pieces

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www.actioninnocence.org
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 --------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2023
----------------------------------------------

www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2022

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition Award 2022

 

Awarding to the winner 
at the F.P.Journe Manufacture November 11, 2022
Supporting the most talented young watchmakers in the world.

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece or an horological construction. The 2022 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2022 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

Maciej Miśnik

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• Marine design pocket watch with tourbillon and pivoted detent escapement
• Age 30 - Warsaw - Poland
• Self-taught - Journeyman's certificate in watchmaking - Warsaw, June 2018
• Graduate in physics - Gdańsk University of Technology - September 2021

 Case, hands and dial

Marine chronometers inspired the presented pocket watch. For this reason, the case was made of brass, however, for contrast, the pendant and the bow were made of silver. Most parts were made in my own workshop without using CNC machines. Basic machines such as lathes, milling machines and hand tools were used to make the watch. 

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For readability, steel hands were thermally oxidized to blue. In my opinion, blued hands harmonize with black indexes on the silver dial. For added complexity, the hour hand jumps once per hour rather than smoothly, as is the case with most watches.

Technical characteristics of the movement

As in marine deck chronometers, a pivoted detent escapement was used. Oscillation frequency of the balance wheel is 2 Hz. It is well known that detent escapement has good friction properties but it is not shock resistant. Due to this, I decided to make a pocket watch instead of a wristwatch. Additionally, the watch was equipped with a tourbillon thereby reducing the problem of poising the balance. 

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Two barrels are used to ensure sufficient torque. A major problem with watches using a tourbillon is the inertia of the cage. For this reason, the tourbillon cage components are very thin and delicate to reduce the inertia. The cage is very heavy, weighing 2 grams, but the problem of inertia was reduced. In the escape wheel, the pinion and the wheel are separated and connected via a bronze hairspring. There is a sleeve with two rubies in the wheel, which runs on the steel axle of the pinion. The hairspring is arranged in such a way that it holds the wheel on the pinion (the wheel does not fall out). 

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As soon as the cage is stationary, the escapement wheel is released. The escapement wheel moves and the cage begins to rotate. When the escapement wheel stops on the ruby, the cage continues to move and winds up the hairspring, losing its kinetic energy, and then slightly backs up. The backing up of the cage results from its high inertia and the reaction force of the hairspring. In most tourbillon watches, the cage stops with the escapement wheel, causing a temporary high force on the escapement elements and undesirable vibrations. In the case of the presented solution, a hairspring absorbs the vibrations, similar to solutions proposed for example by Derek Pratt, Karol Roman etc. The balance wheel is equipped with a Breguet-overcoil spring. There is no regulator on the hairspring due to chronometric properties. Two screws on the balance wheel maintain regulation of the oscillation period. Other screws are used to poise the balance wheel. The tourbillon cage is also poised, by a silver counterweight. Silver was used due to its high density.

 Manufacturing of the components

The presented watch is made of raw metals. No elements have been electro painted or plated. Only the hands and three screws were thermally oxidized to blue. Sulphide was grown on silver elements, this is what gives this darker look to the dial and to the small plate with the signature. 

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As it was written, I made most of the parts myself. Every part was finished by hand. In my workshop were not made: the watch chain, glass, 18 ruby bearings, balance hairspring, 2 mainsprings and 28 of 40 screws. I did not engrave the signature; it was made by a professional engraver.

Measurement

Diameter: without hinge and lock, 4.9 cm / with hinge and lock, 5.2 cm
Height: 7.1 cm Depth: without screws, 1.55 cm / with screws, 1.67 cm
Weight: with key and chain, 112.2 g / without key and chain, 100.2 g

Maciej Misnik

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• Age 30 - Warsaw - Poland
• Self-taught - Journeyman’s certificate in watchmaking - Warsaw, June 2018
• Graduate in physics - Gdarisk University of Technology - September 2021

About you:

When did your passion for watchmaking begin?

I wasn’t quite 2 years old when I destroyed my first Cuckoo clock. Eversince then, clocks, watches and tools have never left me.

Where did you learn about watchmaking?

Mainly, I’m self-taught, but my grandfather, and his father and grandfather, were also watchmakers. From time to time, I went to see watchmakers in my hometown, and would ask them questions.

What type of watchmaking exam did you take, and where?

On June 25, 2018, I passed my journeyman exam in Masovian Chamber of Crafts and Entrepreneurship in Warsaw.

What was your first watchmaking achievement? (Or first watch)

I built my first watch in September 2019. It’s a simple chronograph wristwatch based on parts from a pocket watch.

About the watch:

Why did you choose these complications?

My father is a seaman. Ever since my childhood, I have liked shining brass marine devices, especially clocks. I wanted to have a small marine chronometer watch that I could put into my pocket, so I decided to make a pocket watch with a tourbillon and detent escapement. For me, precision poising the balance wheel is a challenge, so I used a tourbillon to solve the problem.

How long did it take to create this watch?

About 8 months, 1,000 hours of work in total.

What was your favourite part of making this watch?

It’s hard to say. I think one of my favourite parts of making a watch is its first assembly and first run.

What are the challenges of working on basic machines?

In my opinion, the biggest challenges are self-control and self-discipline. In just a few seconds you can destroy 3 days of work. You have to be very careful and 100% focused on all elements.

Why didn’t you use a CNC machine?

The answer is very easy. I did not use a CNC machine for 2 reasons: first, I think that if we say a watch is “hand made”, it has to be hand made, not made on a CNC machine and hand finished. Otherwise, it would be only hand-finished, and manufactured on a machine. I know many factories do this, but I can’t change that. I would like to point out that I’m not an enemy of mechanisation of production. It’s OK, but we have to be honest. The second reason is CNC machines are extremely accurate and reproducible, so, in my opinion of course, a watch cannot be unique. It can be beautiful, precise, amazing, but not unique. Besides, CNC machines are expensive, and I am not the owner of a large factory.

About the future:

What do you intend to do with this prize?

The diploma will be hung above my workbench. Maybe it’s selfish, but I would like to buy some machines and tools for my workshop, for example a professional Swiss-made jig-borer, a pivot polisher, a bigger precision watchmaker lathe, etc.

What is your aspiration for the next five years?

It’s a good question. I would like to make a pocket watch with a 1-second constant force mechanism. It’s my current project. In the near future, I would like to launch my own manufacture, but I’m not sure, that will be possible. One thing IS for sure - I will make watches. Wristwatches, I hope.

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Press release - 2022
----------------------------------------------

www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com