Thursday, April 27, 2017

ANGELUS – U21 & U22 Tourbillon Limited Edition

ANGELUS URBAN U21 & U22 Tourbillon Limited Edition

Angelus introduces two new versions of its
Skeleton Tourbillon movement: the U21 and U22.

Marking a new chapter in Angelus’ Urban Collection of cutting-edge watchmaking, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon revisit the singular movement and streamlined design focused on structural optimization with two new executions: the U21 and U22.

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Marking a new chapter in Angelus’ Urban Collection of cutting-edge watchmaking, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon revisit the singular movement and streamlined design focused on structural optimization with two new executions: the U21 and U22.

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From the movement to the case design, the objective from the get-go has been to showcase the splendor of the movement’s architecture and tourbillon while reducing as much weight as possible. For this purpose, the U21 and U22 Tourbillon feature a carbon fiber main plate, giving the impression of being a part of the case.

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The U21 Tourbillon interprets the uniquely structured movement in a noble metal case, combing the bezel-less carbon fiber central case element with polished and satin-brushed 18-karat red gold lugs, enhancing its visual appeal. The skeletonized bridges are solid 18-karat red gold for additional harmony between the case and movement. To further enhance legibility, the hands are filled with white SuperLumiNova.

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The U22 Tourbillon on the other hand features a carbon fiber and titanium case like the original U20, however with an even greater emphasis on weight reduction. Thanks to its carbon fiber main plate, the U22 Tourbillon weighs a mere 54 grams in total. The flange ring has also been revisited, set with satin-finished applied indexes for the hour markers. The central hands offer a racy look thanks to the red SuperLumiNova.

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The goal with these U21 and U22 Tourbillon is to present the essence of the movement by removing any superfluous material. What seems to look deceptively simple to achieve requires great artistic vision and engineering prowess. The more material that is removed, the more the structure of the movement has to be carefully calculated to ensure rigidity and sturdiness for a maximum precision.

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The tourbillon even goes a step further. It does not boast an ordinary movement that has been skeletonized afterwards, but a tourbillon movement that has been created from scratch to be as open, three-dimensional and resplendent as possible.

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The discerning eye will be pleased to discover that haute horlogerie has not been sacrificed on the altar of minimal mass: components have been hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that they look as good as they are filigree.

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And to further increase visibility into the top of the three-dimensional movement, both models features a unique design element. The case is fashioned without a bezel and instead uses a sapphire crystal dome, which also allows a sideways view onto the movement.

The U21 and U22 Tourbillon deserve closer inspection, which reveals many of the well-thought-out details that go into creating a contemporary, cutting-edge skeleton watch: the variable inertia balance wheel of the tourbillon is especially designed and crafted to minimize air friction; the patterned carbon fiber used in the main plate is offers maximum rigidity; ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. The ultra-light case, entirely made of carbon fiber, red gold or titanium and sapphire, has been designed to echo the three-dimensional aspect and the technical feel of the timepiece.

The U21 and U22 Tourbillon in detail

The absence of a dial and the use of a sapphire crystal dome set directly onto the carbon fiber case allow full visual access to the movement from both the top and sides, accentuating the three-dimensionality of the movement’s architecture.

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The red gold or titanium lugs, which are securely attached to the carbon fiber case and reinforced with an armature of carbon fiber, have a very technical shape and echo the titanium bridges of the movement. However, the intricacy of the lugs is softened by the clever use of polished chamfered edges and contrasting satin-finished surfaces.

Special carbon fiber main plate

The carbon fiber used in the U21 and U22 Tourbillon is very specific, offering the essential characteristics necessary for use in a haute horlogerie timepiece, with tolerances in the micron range. They are not decorative elements, but 100% functional

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Movement elements

The heart of the U21 and U22 Tourbillon is the flying tourbillon. The tourbillon is “flying", which means that it does not require an upper supporting bridge. This helps to maximize the three-dimensionality of the movement and allows maximum appreciation of the technical and aesthetical refinements throughout the movement.

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The tourbillon’s steel cage is hand chamfered and polished with flat surfaces either mirror-polished or satin-finished.

The variable inertia balance wheel is regulated by four gold weights around its perimeter. In the quest for high performance, the rim of the balance wheel has been milled to maximize aerodynamics and reduce air resistance.

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The highly engineered movement further features beam-type titanium bridges, which are skeletonized to reduce weight and offer a better view of the watch’s inner workings.

The titanium mainspring barrel bridge is supported by slim pillars set directly into the carbon fiber main plate, a feat in itself that requires great precision and a total functionality of the carbon fiber main plate.

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All wheels throughout the entire gear train have a specially developed six-spoke design, again in the quest for maximum rigidity for minimum mass.

All of the rubies, which actually act as low-friction bearings, are fitted into solid gold chatons that are embedded in the carbon fiber main plate. Gold chatons not only look good and attest to the movement's haute horlogerie bona fides, they are also non-magnetic and corrosion resistant like the carbon fiber itself. Their functional purpose is to compensate for the slight deformation due to the driving of the jewels in the main plate and prevent the rubies or carbon fiber from breaking.

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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

Model: U21 Tourbillon

Reference: 0TCAD.B01A.C004R

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and gold bridges

Movement and Finishing
Calibre: Angelus A-250, manual-winding with flying tourbillon,
NPT carbon-fiber main plate and solid 18-karat red gold bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing:
Haute horlogerie, all steel components have hand-chamfered and hand-polished  edges,  flat  surfaces  are  mirror-polished  or  satin-finished. 
Satin finished with chamfered and polished edges solid 18-karat red gold bridges
Dial
Material:  NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement’s main plate
Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring
Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with white SuperLumiNova blue emission
Case
Material: NPT carbon-fiber and 18-karat red gold.
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting
Back: Sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100’/ 3 atm
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle
Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Length range: 75 - 115 mm
Width: 21 - 18 mm
Buckle: 18-karat red gold pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference
Limited Edition: 18 pieces
Reference: 0TCAD.B01A.C004R


The U21 Tourbillon is available in a limited edition of 18 pieces
in NPT carbon-fiber/red gold case. Recommended retail price CHF 49’100 (VAT excl.)
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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

Model: U22 Tourbillon

Reference: 0TCBB.B01A.C004T

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with
NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges

Movement and Finishing
Calibre: Angelus A-250, manual-winding with flying tourbillon,
NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing:
Haute horlogerie, all steel component have hand-chamfered and hand polished edges, flat surfaces are mirror-polished or satin-finished. Chamfered and sand blasted titanium bridges.
Dial
Material: NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement main plate
Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring and satin finished indexes
Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with red SuperLumiNova blue emission
Case
Material: NPT carbon-fiber and titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting
Back: Sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100’/ 3 atm
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle
Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Length range: 75 - 115 mm
Width: 21 - 18 mm
Buckle: Titanium, pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference
Limited Edition: 18 pieces
Reference: 0TCBB.B01A.C004T


The U22 Tourbillon is available in a limited edition of 18 pieces
in NPT carbon-fiber/titanium case. Recommended retail price CHF 35’800 (VAT excl.)

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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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Wednesday, April 26, 2017

PANERAI – PAM00700 LAB-ID™ LUMINOR 1950 CARBOTECH™ 3 DAYS


















OFFICINE PANERAIPAM00700 LAB-IDLUMINOR 1950 CARBOTECH™ 3 DAYS - 49mm Limited Edition

A REVOLUTIONARY WATCH DEMONSTRATES THE ABILITY OF PANERAI’S LABORATORIO DI IDEE TO INNOVATE. THANKS TO A BRILLIANT DEVELOPMENT TAPPING INTO THE INFINITE POTENTIAL OF CARBON, THE NEW CREATION IS A CASE WITH EXCEPTIONAL CHARACTERISTICS, A COMPLETELY NEW DEEP BLACK DIAL AND A MOVEMENT NEEDING NO LUBRICATION, GUARANTEED FOR 50 YEARS*.

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The past and the future come together in this extraordinary new demonstration of high quality contemporary watchmaking created by the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee: the PANERAI LAB-ID.

This new Special Edition, consisting of only 50 units, is notable for the timeless design of the Luminor 1950 collection, but it also presents a series of technological innovations which are evidence of the ability of the Florentine brand to draw inspiration from its own past as it writes the future of high quality watchmaking. To create a watch with exceptional performance and revolutionary characteristics, the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee has sought inspiration in the world of high technology, exploring the most innovative international developments, and it has found the answer in the infinite potential of carbon.

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Every component of the new PANERAI LAB-ID™ demonstrates the ability of this chemical element to create materials with exceptional properties: the case, made of a composite material based on carbon fibre; the dial, covered with carbon nanotubes; and the movement that, thanks to the mechanical properties of carbon composites, works perfectly without any lubrication. It is a remarkable glimpse into the future of mechanical watchmaking, demonstrating the infinite development potential of a supremely traditional and appealing area of craftsmanship.



THE CARBOTECH CASE: EXCEPTIONAL PERFORMANCE 
AND EVERY EXAMPLE UNIQUE

The Luminor 1950 case – 49 mm in diameter – is made of carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fibre, which was introduced into the world of watchmaking by Panerai. As well as ensuring exceptional technical performance, carbotech has a dense, uneven blackness which varies with the cut of the material, making each individual example different from all the rest, and unrepeatable.

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The structure of carbotech enhances both the appearance and the performance of the material, which is used to make the case and the bridge device with its locking lever protecting the winding crown, thus helping to ensure the watch’s water-resistance to 10 bar (a depth of about 100 metres). To form the sheets of carbotech from which these components are made, very thin sheets of carbon fibre are pressed together at a controlled temperature under very high pressure with the organic polymer PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone), which links the composite material, making it yet more resistant and reliable.

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The carbon fibres used are very long, so as to achieve great aesthetic uniformity. The sheets are superimposed and pressed together in such a way the orientation of the fibres of each layer is out of phase with the one below or above it.

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This structure has the effect of increasing the mechanical properties of carbotech compared to those of similar materials or others often used in high quality watchmaking, such as ceramics or titanium. Carbotech is actually lighter and more resistant to external stresses, as well as being hypoallergenic and not subject to corrosion.


THE TECHNOLOGY OF CARBON NANOTUBES 
FOR A DEEP BLACK DIAL

Panerai watches have always been unmatched for the legibility of their dials, resulting from a remarkable blend of design, construction and materials technology, and the new PANERAI LAB-ID™ forms a new chapter in the company’s continuing history of research and innovation.

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The dial has the classic sandwich structure invented by Panerai, in which the luminous substance – in this case blue-coloured Super-LumiNova® – emerges through the openings made in the dial corresponding to the hour markers and the small seconds dial, ensuring excellent visibility and legibility. In the PANERAI LAB-ID™ these characteristics are further enhanced by the innovative materials used: the dial has a coating of carbon nanotubes, used for the first time for the display dial.

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The optical properties of this special coating have been specially developed to absorb light, reducing reflection to a minimum and giving the dial a particularly deep black appearance, forming a spectacular contrast with the blue of the hour markers and hands, which follow the classic Panerai design.

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Because it is not possible to print or stamp a dial with these characteristics, all the figures are formed directly on the dial crystal, to which a double anti-reflective treatment has been applied.

THE NEW P.3001/C MOVEMENT, 
RUNNING PERFECTLY WITHOUT LUBRICATION

The new PANERAI LAB-ID™ has a P.3001/C hand-wound calibre with a power reserve of three days, now presented for the very first time in an extraordinarily innovative version, semi-skeletonised, completely without additional lubrication and with only four jewels.

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By using a wide range of solutions, specially devised for the individual parts of the movement and associated with the unique properties of carbon, the plates, bridges, barrels, escapement and anti-shock device use self-lubricating and dry lubricating materials, and are hence exempt from any liquid lubrication. These solutions have revolutionised the need for maintaining and overhauling the calibre, enabling Panerai to guarantee it for no less than 50 years*.

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  • –– To remove the need for further lubricating the main bridges and the plate, these components are made of a completely new material: a low friction composite which  integrates  a  Tantalum  based  ceramic.  This new generation of composite is notable for its high percentage of carbon which minimises pivot friction, making jewels and their related lubrication unnecessary.
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  • –– Also eliminated is the need to lubricate the escapement, as a result of making the main components from silicon and applying a special coating of DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) to the wheelwork.
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  • ––  A good two years of testing by the Laboratorio di Idee in the Panerai Manufacture identified the best type of coating – based on carbon – with which to treat the components of the two spring barrels of the P.3001 calibre, so as to make conventional lubrication superfluous. The solution was to use a series of layers and sub-layers of coating, the surface one being coated with DLC.
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  • –– Last but not least, a surface coating of DLC on the four jewels means that there is no need to further lubricate the Incabloc® anti-shock device.
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Most of the P.3001/C movement of the new PANERAI LAB-ID™ can be seen through the large porthole protected by a sapphire crystal which is set in the back of the watch, enabling the power reserve indicator to be read. The skeletonising of the bridges and the barrels makes it even easier to admire the technical excellence and finish of a calibre of extreme reliability and great precision.

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The movement’s distinctive features include a balance wheel which is no less than 13.2 mm in diameter, fixed by a bridge with twin supports and oscillating at a frequency of 3 Hz, and the device which stops the balance and returns the seconds hand to zero (seconds reset) when setting the time, so that the watch can be perfectly synchronised with a reference signal.

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The new PANERAI LAB-ID™ (PAM00700) is supplied with a black leather strap, with contrasting sewing in the same blue as the luminous details of the dial.

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: PANERAI LAB-IDLUMINOR 1950 CARBOTECH™ 3 DAYS - 49mm Limited Edition
Reference: PAM00700


The Carbotech Case
The case is made of CARBOTECH, a composite material obtained from very thin sheets of carbon fibre compressed together with a special polymer at a controlled temperature.
This technique makes each case unique and different from all others.
Carbotech is light in weight, hypo-allergenic and not subject to corrosion, as well as having exceptional mechanical properties.

MOVEMENT
Hand-wound mechanical, Calibre P.3001/C
The skilful use of different materials and coatings based on CARBON have enabled friction between the components of the movement to be reduced to a minimum.
There are only four jewels and no external lubrication is needed.
he watch is GUARANTEED FOR 50 YEARS.*
SPRING BARRELS
The two SPRING BARRELS have a multi-layer coating, the uppermost one being DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon).
BRIDGES AND PLATE
The BRIDGES and PLATE are made from a composite material integrating a Tantalum-based ceramic.
ESCAPEMENT
The main components of the ESCAPEMENT are made of silicon and the wheelwork has a special DLC coating.
ANTI-SHOCK DEVICE
A surface coating of DLC on the jewels means that the Incabloc® ANTI-SHOCK DEVICE needs no further lubrication.
Deep Black DIAL
The dial is covered with CARBON NANOTUBES arranged to absorb light and minimize reflection.
The result is an extremely black dial, setting off the blue hands and hour markers.

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