Wednesday, November 23, 2016

H. MOSER & CIE. – VENTURER Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton






















H. MOSER & CIE. VENTURER Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton - Unique Piece NEW


"ONE WAS NOT ENOUGH"

In 2015, on the first day of Baselworld, Laurent Picciotto of Chronopassion fell in love with the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton by H. Moser & Cie. and acquired this stunning timepiece worth 1 million Swiss Francs. This masterpiece featuring a new skeleton movement, a case made entirely from sapphire and a 3D printed strap was a unique piece. But "one was not enough" for Laurent, who commissioned the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture to create another model with a sapphire case, but this model was to be even more daring.


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The case for this second model, created once again entirely from sapphire, comes from the H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Collection. The finish on the case flanks with its unusual shapes, the exquisite bezel, the curve of the dial and the crystal, the proportions which echo the convex forms of the 1960s – the beauty of all these features is amplified by the transparency of the sapphire. The sapphire case highlights the beauty of the HMC 803 automatic calibre. Entirely skeletonised, this movement was blued by CVD, a chemical vapour deposition process.

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The unexpected design combines the modern architecturalshapes of the bridges with a nickel silver movement and a blue finish associated with traditional haute horlogerie. Framed by the Venturer's ultra-thin bezel, the hand-finished movement is open to full view through the sapphire flange bearing the hour indices. The long, tapered hands are created in rose gold, as is the main bridge of the tourbillon, arching broadly across the cage.  On the reverse side of the watch, the bidirectional rotor, made from 22-carat solid red gold, is also engraved and openworked.

The Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Blue Skeleton is equipped with a second time zone, indicated by a red, rhodium-plated hand, which is concealed beneath the main hour hand when the function is not in use. It also features an interchangeable minute tourbillon equipped with an original Straumann Double Hairspring®, a stroke of genius for a watch that is truly a part of the history of time, and which transcends the advantages of a simple tourbillon.

The Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Blue Skeleton is an exceptional timepiece: a daring and innovative model with a provocative design. Never has a tourbillon been any less conventional. Playing with surprising contrasts, H. Moser & Cie. showcases watchmaking's most traditional and exceptional complication, the tourbillon, with a contemporary twist that is also nuanced and brings lightness.

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Technical details

Model: Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Blue Skeleton
Reference 2803-1001, Sapphire model, black alligator leather strap -  Unique piece

Case
Sapphire case, three-part
Diameter: 41.5 mm, height: 14.3 mm
Curved sapphire crystal and see-through sapphire case back
Sapphire crown engraved with an “M
Dial
Sapphire flange integrated into the 3-part sapphire case
Midnight blue indices
Rose gold leaf-shaped hands
Movement
Blue skeletonised, in-house, automatic HMC 803 calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
Bi-directional pawl winding
Solid 22-carat red gold skeletonised rotor engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. hallmark
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
Interchangeable Moser minute tourbillon at 6 o'clock with skeletonised bridges
Functions
Hours and minutes
Second hour hand can be hidden when not in use
Strap
Hand-stitched black alligator leather strap
18-carat gold pin buckle

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Press release - 2016
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos, T +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com
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H. MOSER &CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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Tuesday, November 22, 2016

A. Lange & Sohne – RICHARD LANGE Jumping Seconds Platinum


A. Lange & SohneRICHARD LANGE Jumping Seconds Platinum Limited Edition NEW


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Split-second precision

The first pieces of the RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS in platinum have recently been delivered to the dealers of A. Lange & Söhne. The typical regulator dial, the classic jumping seconds mechanism, the constant-force escapement and the ZERO-RESET mechanism come together in a fascinating reinterpretation of the scientific observation watch.

For ten years, the name RICHARD LANGE has stood for a continually growing watch family. It convincingly transitions the scientific observation watch, a genre traditionally nurtured by A. Lange & Söhne, from the past to the present. Additionally, its name pays tribute to Ferdinand Adolph Lange's firstborn son. Born in 1845, Richard Lange adopted his father's legacy by translating the latest insights in physics, chemistry and mathematics into numerous technical developments. Many of his patents were embodied in the manufactory's technically elaborate pocket watches.

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Presented in January 2016, the RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS broadens the watch family with a model including a classic function that was once a feature of A. Lange & Söhne's historic pocket watches. Its newly developed L094.1 manufacture calibre is endowed with this complication (also referred to as seconde morte), and has an innovative constant-force escapement. The mechanism utilises the switching impulse of the jumping seconds integrated in the wheel train to deliver fresh energy to the remontoir spring of the constant-force escapement. In a separate wheel train between the mainspring barrel and the escapement, the constant-force mechanism compensates the gradually declining power of the mainspring. It assures virtually constant torque and a stable amplitude across the entire power-reserve period of up to 42 hours.

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The ZERO-RESET mechanism allows the watch to be quickly and comfortably synchronised with a time signal. The rhodié-coloured regulator dial features a prominent seconds circle and presents itself in a stately platinum case with a diameter of 39.9 millimetres. A small aperture at the intersection of the hour and minute circles reminds the owner when it is time to wind the watch: the display switches to red ten hours in advance.

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In the movement, hand-finished to the strictest Lange standards, the technical processes are easily observable through the sapphire-crystal caseback. A five-point star, that controls the seconds jumps, rotates beneath a transparent sapphire bearing jewel in the middle of the mirror-polished end piece. The remontoir spring of the constant-force escapement can be seen through an opening in the three-quarter plate. The levers, springs and clutch of the ZERO-RESET mechanism are readily visible as well.

Technical addendum for the RICHARD LANGE 
JUMPING SECONDS

The RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS conceals three technical highlights beneath its puristic regulator dial: the namesake jumping seconds, the constant-force escapement that assures uniform power management and the ZERO-RESET mechanism for resetting the seconds hand. 

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These are three reasons for a look backstage and into the construction of Lange's L094.1 manufacture calibre.

Jumping seconds

The jumping seconds is an A. Lange & Söhne tradition that dates back nearly 150 years. In 1867, Saxon watchmaking pioneer Ferdinand Adolph Lange crafted a pocket watch with a seconde morte. Its large sweep seconds hand circumscribed a minute in exactly 60 steps. The hand could be started and stopped but not reset to zero. His sons Richard and Emil evolved the system and in 1877 filed a patent application for the mechanism they mounted on the three-quarter plate, naming it "seconds movement with jumping seconds".

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The functional principle of the RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS, launched in January 2016, is similar: as in the historic mechanism, a flirt and a star were the elements that controlled the seconds jump, the conversion of the six semi-oscillations of the balance into one hand step per second.

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The star that rotates beneath a transparent sapphire bearing jewel is attached to the escape wheel arbor. Together with the escape wheel, it rotates about its own axis once every five seconds. After each full second, one of the tips of the star liberates the tensioned lever arm, which watchmakers refer to as the "flirt". It performs an abrupt rotation through 360 degrees before being stopped by the next tip again. This motion sequence causes the seconds hand to advance by precisely one marker.

Constant-force escapement

A. Lange & Söhne has been intensively investigating ways to offset the difference between the high initial torque and low final torque of mainsprings. With the fusée-and-chain transmission first introduced in 1994, and three different constant-force escapements, A. Lange & Söhne has meanwhile developed four separate constant-power delivery systems.

In the LANGE 31, the constant-force escapement delivers a constant amount of torque in ten-second intervals across a period of 31 days. In the ZEITWERK, it harnesses the force of the powerful mainspring and instantaneously advances the numeral discs once every minute. In the RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS, the mechanism fulfils a dual function: on the one hand, it offsets the waning power of the mainspring barrel, and on the other, it prevents a loss of amplitude during the seconds jump.

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The mechanism utilises the switching impulse of the jumping seconds integrated in the wheel train to deliver fresh energy to the remontoir spring of the constant-force escapement, which is visible through an aperture in the train bridge. In a separate wheel train between the mainspring barrel and the escapement, the constant-force escapement compensates the dwindling torque of the mainspring. The remontoir spring of the constant-force mechanism delivers virtually constant torque to the escapement, so the amplitude of the watch remains stable during the entire power reserve period of up to 42 hours. In combination with the cam-poised balance, excellent rate stability is guaranteed by a free-sprung hairspring, which, like the remontoir spring, is made in-house.

ZERO-RESET mechanism

The ZERO-RESET device first integrated into the SAX-0-MAT movement in 1997 was refined for the RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS and endowed with a multidisc clutch. Its purpose is to reliably steady the large seconds hand with its comparatively high moment of inertia, especially during the sudden acceleration and braking phases associated with the seconds jump. Additionally, the clutch makes it possible to isolate the wheel train when resetting the seconds hand to zero.

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When the crown is pulled, a complex set of levers triggers three processes within fractions of a second: the arresting spring is gently pivoted into the balance and holds it, and the clutch discs are separated with a clamp, disconnecting the seconds hand from the wheel train.

The reset hammer contacts the heart cam, advancing it and the seconds hand to the zero position. When the crown is pushed home, the seconds hand is re-engaged with the wheel train and the balance is released. It immediately starts oscillating again.

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Technical Specifications

Model: RICHARD LANGE Jumping Seconds Platinum

Reference: 252.025 Platinum

Limited Edition  100 watches.

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L094.1
Manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards,
decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions;
constant-force escapement with remontoir spring crafted in-house;
plates and bridges made of untreated German silver;
balance cock engraved by hand
Movement measures:
Diameter: 33.6 millimetres; height: 6.0 millimetres
Movement parts: 390
Bearing jewels: 50
Screwed gold chatons: 8
Escapement: Lever escapement 
Oscillator:
Shock-resistant balance wheel with eccentric poising weights;
balance spring manufactured in-house with a frequency of
21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat-adjustment
system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Functions
Time display in hours, minutes and jumping seconds with stop
seconds and ZERO-RESET function; end-of-power indication
Operating elements:
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time
Case
Platinum
Diameter: 39.9 millimetres; height: 10.6 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Dial: Solid silver, rhodié
Hands: Hours and minutes in rhodiumed gold, blued-steel seconds hand
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap, black
Buckle: Lange prong buckle in platinum

Limited edition  100 watches

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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
Tel.: +49 35053 ; 44-5505
E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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