VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONELLE Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

 

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONELLE  Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface 41mm Pink Gold  2023

Tradition meets modernity

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• A model born from a combination of contemporary design and the wealth of Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking heritage.
• Strict respect for tradition, exemplary finishing and an openface dial embody constantly renewed creative expertise.
• Calibre 2162 R31: an in-house self-winding movement combining a tourbillon with a retrograde date display on an openworked dial.

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The expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the heart of this Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch. 

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The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement – with its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power. 

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The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, gains depth in a functional and contemporary style.

Openface design and retrograde date

A retrograde date display is one in which the indicator does not complete a full turn of the dial, instead travelling along its entire measurement segment and then returning to its starting point to begin a new journey. This is generally an arc of a circle swept over by a dedicated hand. Most retrograde displays apply to cyclical time indications such as hours, minutes, seconds, days or dates. 

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This mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly with regards to shock- and wear-resistance. At Vacheron Constantin, special retrograde displays first became popular in the 1920s, a period when the Maison distinguished itself by a style inspired by the aesthetic principles of Art Deco, conducive to letting the imagination roam free and expressing wildly extravagant touches.

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Skeletonized retrograde date platinum, Ref. 47247-2002

Heir to the References 47245 and 47247 from the early Noughties, the Traditionnelle tourbillon date retrograde openface combines its retrograde display with a partially openworked dial, another signature of the Maison since the early 20^th century. Openface dials highlight the technical nature and the meticulous and consistent attention to detail through an avant-garde aesthetic approach. 

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Housed in an 18K pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and only 11.07 mm thick, this new timepiece is fitted with a grey alligator strap secured by a pink gold folding clasp.

Alternating finishes combining traditional High Watchmaking and technical boldness

Stepped round case and lugs, a fluted caseback, a slim bezel, a railway minute-track, bi-facetted Dauphine hands and gold baton-type hour-markers: the characteristic attributes of the Traditionnelle collection, inherited from the Age of Enlightenment, are rooted in the Geneva's grand High Watchmaking traditions. 

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At Vacheron Constantin, however, respect for the past does not exclude creativity but in fact stimulates it. Resulting from three years of work and dialogue between artisans and master-watchmakers, this timepiece features alternating hand-finishes that endow it with remarkable depth. 

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The openworked sapphire dial, which also has a guilloché segment, reveals in-house Calibre 2162 R31, whose retrograde mechanism plate is highlighted by a slate grey surface treatment, achieved by a succession of thin galvanic layers. 

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It is further enhanced by vertical hand-brushing on the upper part, its surface having been smoothed with a dedicated abrasive serving to create subtle light effects, as well as a hand-guilloché lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, thus gains added depth in an ultra-contemporary yet very watchmaking style.

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Stylised in the shape of a hollowed-out Maltese Cross, the tourbillon features a set of refined and complex finishes: the inside of its carriage is hand-bevelled, its cone-shaped transversal bar is hand-polished to give it a mirror-like gleam close to perfection.

Calibre 2162 R31 pushing the boundaries of contemporary fine watchmaking

Proudly bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, the Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch is driven by a 242-component in-house movement. Calibre 2162 R31 revisits the concept of High Watchmaking by adapting it to modern times with its NAC slate grey finish, 72-hour power reserve and decorated gold peripheral weight.

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"This calibre exudes a palpable tension between High Watchmaking traditions and the permanent need to innovate”, notes Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin. “It will thus make a lasting mark on its time.”

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Beating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and measuring just 6.25 mm thick, Calibre 2162 R31 combines a retrograde date with a tourbillon. This unexpected match is embodied in a technical geometry of rare beauty with a retrograde mechanism visible to the naked eye through the openworked dial. 

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The majestic tourbillon is set in a contemporary mainplate with a very high-quality watchmaking finish reflecting the grand Geneva tradition.

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Sum-up

The expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the heart of this Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch. The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement – with its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power. 

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The latter is notably highlighted by hand-crafted finishes such as vertical hand-brushing on the upper part of the retrograde mechanism plate and guilloché work on the lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, takes on added depth in a functional and contemporary style.

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Interview with Christian Selmoni

Are openface dials a Vacheron Constantin speciality?
The company has a long history of this type of display, known as "openface". The very first Vacheron Constantin timepiece with a partially openworked dial dates from 1918. It was a pocket watch with an astronomical calendar which, was totally innovative at the time in terms of design. 

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Pocket watch - 1918

It was not until almost a century later that the Manufacture once again turned its attention to this dial concept with Reference 47247 unveiled in 2002 on the eve of the millennium, for the 247^th anniversary of the Maison. This 247-piece limited-edition available in a 37 mm platinum case, features a retrograde date, a trailing days subdial at 6 o'clock and an openworked dial enabling the retrograde date mechanism to be admired.  It marks this same openface spirit that has become a Vacheron Constantin signature.

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How was the integration of these openface dials then perpetuated?
In 2019, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar was part of this dynamic, playing on the tensions between contemporary style and the power of tradition. It clearly marked a milestone. Two years later in 2021, a new interpretation was born: the Traditionnelle openface complete calendar. 

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This stylish reference, presented in a 41 mm case in white or pink gold with an openworked sapphire dial, opened up new creative possibilities by combining watchmaking tradition/heritage with contemporary design.

Might one say that the new Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch is a worthy heir of the above-mentioned models?

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Definitely so. This new reference continues to write the history of watches with openworked dials at Vacheron Constantin. And it does so in grand style with a tourbillon, a retrograde date and absolutely remarkable component finishes. The idea here is to push the limits of technical complexity and horological beauty by making them visible, all in a classic rose gold case. 

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The opportunity to admire the contemporary design of Calibre 2162 R31 is truly spectacular. This new interpretation embodiyng a blend of contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is clearly a strong signature of the Maison.

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 “Pushing the limits of technical complexity and horological beauty by making them visible” Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: TRADITIONELLE

Model:  TRADITIONELLE Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

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Reference    6010T/000R-B638   

Movement
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Calibre 2162 R31
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (13½''') diameter, 6.25 mm thick
Approximately 72 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
242 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications                 

• Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
• Tourbillon
• Retrograde date                                          

Case                                 
18K 5N pink gold
Diameter 41 mm, 11.07 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial                                   
Openface, assembled in four parts:
- 18K gold slate grey openface plate with an hand-guilloché upper-part, surrounded by an opaline flange with railway minute-track
- 18K gold applied hour-markers
- Sapphire glass
- 18K gold tourbillon second’s ring
18K 5N pink gold hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent
Strap                                
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle finish, large square scales
Buckle                             
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

🔴Price: approx. EUR 200,000 |  $ 217,000 | approx. £ 174,000💰💰

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#VacheronConstantin
#OneOfNotMany
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#TRADITIONELLETourbillonRetrogradeDateOpenface
#TourbillonRetrogradeDateOpenface

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Press Release - 2023
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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BA111OD – Chapter 4.5 Veblen Dilemma Tourbillon

 

BA111OD – Chapter 4.5 Veblen Dilemma Tourbillon Titanium Edition 2023

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 "We believe in an uninhibited watchmaking industry that stays accessible to the greatest number of people"

Neuchâtel, May 23, 2023 - Following the big success of its first tourbillon, Chapter 4.1, The Veblen Dilemma*, which has sold more than 600 pieces to date, and in response to recurring demand, BA111OD announces the launch of its 40mm version. This bestseller - entirely designed and produced in Switzerland, with the renowned watch designer Olivier Mory - integrates NFC technology into the watch glass. A feat that the brand was the first to offer.

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Since 2019, Thomas Baillod, the daring entrepreneur at the helm of BA111OD, has been shaking up the conventions of watchmaking, which are sometimes too conservative for his taste.

 

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Chapter 4.1 Veblen Dilemma

 

After rethinking the margins linked to distribution channels and demonstrating that it was possible to innovate in the watchmaking industry's business model, he went even further by combining one of the most prestigious watchmaking complications, the tourbillon, with a technological feat: the very first NFC-connected sapphire crystal in the history of watchmaking. This convergence of art and technology strengthens the bond with customers and pushes the boundaries of the customer experience.

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With the Chapter 4.5 "The Veblen Dilemma "* Tourbillon, BA111OD combines the quintessence of Swiss haute horlogerie with customized services for its clients. This exceptional watch, entirely made in Switzerland, offers a unique design and an innovative approach. Unlike traditional connected watches, the technology is integrated only into the sapphire crystal, preserving the aesthetics and integrity of the mechanical movement. 

 

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With features such as a concierge service, private invitations and a personalized user experience, BA111OD strengthens the special bond with its customers.

A perfectly unisex design

In response to numerous requests, BA111OD introduces the all-new 40mm case size for the Chapter 4.5 "The Veblen Dilemma "* Tourbillon, offering a perfectly unisex design. This versatile size ensures that both men and women can enjoy the elegance and sophistication of this extraordinary watch.

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The Chapter 4.5 "The Veblen Dilemma "* Tourbillon, with its contemporary beauty and high-end finishes, embodies the excellence of fine watchmaking. With a 40mm grade 5 titanium case with an exclusive tantalum grey DLC treatment, a hand-wound movement and a 105-hour power reserve, this exceptional timepiece demonstrates BA111OD's commitment to quality and innovation.

BA111OD

Since 2019, each launch orchestrated by Thomas Baillod, the founder of the watch brand BA111OD, via the LinkedIn platform and private events, is eagerly awaited by his Afluendors (a contraction of "Ambassadors, inFLUENcers and venDORS"). 

 

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Each time, the recipe is the same: the presentation, to a growing and committed community, of watches with a powerful DNA and design, with a clear positioning and at a price never seen before on the market.

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Chapter 4.5 Veblen Dilemma

Chapter 4.5 The Veblen Dilemma* Tourbillon is now on sale as a numbered edition for CHF 5540. The first deliveries are scheduled for December 2023.

THE TOURBILLON

This complication is one of the most prestigious in watchmaking.

A device designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 to cancel the deviations in the rate in vertical positions.

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It consists of a mobile cage that carries all the escapement components and, in its center, the regulating organ. The escapement pinion turns around the seconds wheel, which is fixed. 

 

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Chapter 4.5 Veblen Dilemma

 

The cage makes 1 revolution/minute, it cancels by turning the differences of march in the vertical positions. (Source: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, FH)

*The Veblen Dilemma :

The name of Chapter 4.1 The Veblen Dilemma Tourbillon was chosen in a nod to the Veblen Effect. Named after the economist and sociologist Thorstein Veblen (1857-1929), it refers to the snobbery which considers that the high price of a luxury good makes it more desirable. 

 

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Chapter 4.1 Veblen Dilemma

 

And conversely, that an accessible price necessarily corresponds to a lower intrinsic value. BA111Od, with its tourbillonl, poses a real dilemma.

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PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Chapter 4.5 Veblen Dilemma Tourbillon

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Reference: CHAPTER 4.5 T.V.D.

 

Technology
ID Glass technology with a non-invasive NFC tag inserted into the curved sapphire crystal.
BA111OD was the first watchmaker to use the NFC function in the glass.

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound caliber BA.01 (base BCP Tourbillon)
21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hertz)
Variable inertia balance
19 jewels
Over 5000 G shock resistance
105 hours power reserve (more than 4 days)
Functions
Hours and minutes
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Case
Case in grade 5, tantalum grey DLC
Diameter 40 mm
Crown At 4 o'clock, engraved with the BA111OD emblem
Crystal  Domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating,
printed logo, NFC technology with "concierge function
Water resistance: 50 meters

Magnetic resistance   2000 Gauss
Dial
Semi-open dial according to an original design
White SuperLuminova hands and markers
Bracelet
Saffiano textured leather, night blue stitching, made in Italy, folding clasp

🔰Edition   Numbered series watches

🌍 Free worldwide shipping
✅ Free return within 14 days

🔴 Price    CHF 5,540.00

«Pour aimer du temps, celui qui ne compte pas» / « To love time, the one that doesn't count »

This enigmatic sentence, engraved on the barrel, is a tribute to Gil Baillod, the father of
Thomas Baillod, a leading figure in journalism in French-speaking Switzerland. He had written
it on the title page of the book he had written on the measurement of time, which he had
given to Thomas' best friend on the day of his death.

All of our watches are numbered. The price includes our 2-year international watch warranty and the worldwide shipping costs.

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WORLDWIDE
Laura Stewart
laura@ba111od.com
+41(0)79.615.51.35

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SWITZERLAND & GERMANY
PR by CÉLINE
Céline Aepli Zumwald
celine@pr-byceline.com
+41(0)79.416.27.41

instagram.com - ba111od.official 
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Ba111od.com

De Bethune – DB28xs Starry Seas

 

De Bethune – CURRENT DB28XS Starry Seas Titanium - 2023

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DB28xs Starry Seas
The very fragile beauty of a watch

De Bethune invents random guilloché: a world’s first.

Placing innovation at the heart of the process. Integrating creativity. Pushing innovation. Thinking outside the box. Not repeating but inventing; thinking ingeniously while improving precision, reliability, readability and comfort: the DB28xs Starry Seas is not just an aesthetically smaller watch. It is one that starts a new chapter for De Bethune. A model that will go down in the history of the brand, as it represents a further step in the initiation story that Denis Flageollet – Master Watchmaker and Founder of the Manufacture De Bethune – has been telling for the past 20 years.

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While the DB28 is an emblematic De Bethune watch, this new version is all the more remarkable for the particular meaning it enshrines. Featuring a significantly smaller diameter than previous models (39 mm), while retaining De Bethune's unique and characteristic design, the DB28xs Starry Seas is a miniature miracle – in terms of the technology required to complete the project, but above all because of De Bethune's virtuosity in transposing the spirit of the Enlightenment into the world of 21st century wristwatches, by reformulating exceptional fine craftsmanship and offering an unprecedented aesthetic creation.
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There is no question of identically reproducing the past, but rather of engaging in a quest to stir new emotions when faced with exceptional objects. The intentions of Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and Founder of de Bethune are pure: he looks at tradition from an innovative standpoint and works to make the contemporary mechanical watch a wristworn cultural embodiment of time measurement.

For a beautiful object to be born somewhere, mastery must have reached a certain degree of maturity

While the DB28xs Starry Seas was born of an extraordinary acrobatic feat that involved bringing the majestic sense of grandeur conveyed by the great Age of Enlightenment clocks with their scientific instruments to the wrist, its fascinating micro-mechanics along with refined aesthetics of a small watch also offer a glimpse into the deepest recesses of the creative mind behind it.

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Beneath the deceptively simple appearance of mere miniaturisation, the singular nature of this watch and its design extends far beyond its smaller size and its mode of operation.

"It is the culture and understanding of techniques and objects that enable the birth of such a project. For the creation of the DB28xs Starry Seas, the creative process that impelled me evokes the Japanese spirit of Wabi-Sabi, a Japanese concept that is virtually an art form and aims to bring individuals, objects and the environment into harmony."

An intuitive appearance of pure, harmonious beauty

A veritable life philosophy in Japan, Wabi-Sabi blends two aesthetic and spiritual principles historically very present in the national culture. Referring to the fullness experienced when contemplating nature, the expression wabi means solitude and simplicity, with a touch of melancholy.

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Sabi, which is more concerned with the traces of past time, refers to the sensation felt when perceiving the work of time or of man on something.

Inspired by the Wabi-Sabi concept, Denis Flageollet nurtures an appreciation for a quiet life away from urban hustle and bustle along with a sense of tranquillity, contemplation of something that becomes beautiful as it ages. "While design is constantly experimenting, it appears that, despite the development of industrial technology, this subtle link between humankind and Nature traditionally expressed in art, literature and craftsmanship remains alive and well."

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Wabi-Sabi is comparable to the Greek ideals of beauty and perfection propagated in Western civilisation. In the Japanese archipelago, this principle lying at the heart of many artistic fields, such as design and garden art, also evokes simplicity and frugality – which are making a strong comeback after the consumerist boom and the economic bubble. Witness the success of books on degrowth.

The very fragile beauty of the world

All in all, Denis Flageollet clearly knows how to stand still for a while… as a means of going further.

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The absolutism of his work, the quest for perfection in imperfection have guided him over the last 20 years – without him even realising it – from a culture turned towards science and the rigorous aesthetics of the Age of Enlightenment to a philosophy dedicated to discovering the very fragile beauty of the world. Calm and serenity, the search for purity, tranquillity, an ode to traditional art while embracing new technologies, the DB28xs Starry Seas is the aesthetic conjugation of the beauty of simple and modest things.

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Three principles of the Wabi-Sabi concept emanate naturally from the DB28xs Starry Seas:

⦁    With its random guilloché pattern (which is a world’s first) creating a dial featuring a blued titanium wave reflecting a starry sky, the DB28xs Starry Seas offers us one of the three principles of Wabi-Sabi: the beauty of imperfect things that are impermanent and incomplete.
⦁    Through its small size and the sobriety of its silver-toned chapter-ring and movement, the second principle of Wabi-Sabi pervading it is the beauty of modest and simple things. Or at least apparently simple, for in the ultra-technical world of miniaturisation, this watch is a technical feat notably involving the extreme miniaturisation of the DB28's patented ‘floating lugs’ system.
⦁    Finally, the result is a different, singular watch embodying the third definition of Wabi-Sabi: the beauty of atypical things.

Between art and science

For the geniuses of the Age of Enlightenment, their aim was to create scientific instruments whose beauty emanated from their function, their mechanical sobriety and their simplicity. Powerful figures than transformed them into veritable objets d'art, calling on the best artisans of their time, including cabinetmakers, bronze-makers and enamellists such as Boulle, Caffieri and Coteau.

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The success of the DB28xs Starry Seas demonstrates that Denis Flageollet's teams are totally imbued with the De Bethune spirit stemming from this culture. The concept of perpetual evolution informs their work and hence their constant questioning of existing techniques, relying on the mastery of both ancestral expertise and new technologies. This incessant movement is the keystone of the Manufacture, which constantly cultivates this state of mind.

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"There is no point in working unless you wish to progress, and the only way to do that is to continually challenge your assumptions. To constantly go back to the drawing board and rethink the work in hand, helping it evolve by modifying an element, a process, a technique and sometimes making tiny, often imperceptible improvements”, comments Denis Flageollet.

A lighter DB28 more resistant to impacts and acceleration

For centuries, watchmakers isolated mechanisms from external influences by placing them in towers, on tables and on gimbals. Improved accuracy was soon accompanied by a desire to wear these timepieces. While it was necessary to adapt this chronometric precision to a wide range of extreme wearing conditions, resistance to shocks, accelerations and magnetic fields are very contemporary issues that require specialised research that also relates to the smaller size of this watch.

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Calibre DB2005 has been adapted to this miniaturisation without losing its chronometric quality. Better still, the increased lightness of the watch endows it with better efficiency in case of impacts and acceleration.

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Aesthetically speaking, while the colour blue was not chosen solely for its visual attributes, on the one hand its symbolic reference to skies and seas as well as to its entire universe of wisdom and serenity echoes the Wabi-Sabi concept that guided its creation; and on the other hand, its presence among De Bethune mechanisms has genuine technical legitimacy. It was in fact during an initial attempt to resolve technical problems of stability and chronometry when developing the new De Bethune balances that Denis Flageollet created a new, unprecedented oscillator, combining the soft white metallic shade of palladium with the vibrant blue of titanium.
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Since then, the inherently natural blue colour has become one of the brand's signatures, as its shimmering reflections on different materials and their finishes enables an infinite and refined play on nuances.

The overarching purpose is to continue the work of the great 18th century master horologists in their quest for perfect timekeeping coupled with an absolute sense of aesthetics. Using the most modern scientific and technological discoveries, the endeavours of the De Bethune teams converge to invent unique, innovative and high-performance solutions.
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The principle has remained the same for more than 20 years: creating timepieces respecting watchmaking traditions while incorporating the mechanical, technical and aesthetic innovations of our time.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CURRENT

Name:  DB28xs Starry Seas

Functions: Hours, Minutes
Movement: DB2005
Type: Mechanical manual-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)

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Reference:  DB28XsTIS3

Movement
Calibre DB2005
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour/ 4 Hertz
Number of parts: 160
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Specificities:
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences
and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006) Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Display
Display: Polished titanium hands
Dial
Silver-plated hours and minutes ring with transferred Arabic numerals
Random guilloché blued titanium dial (world’s first)
Starry sky with white gold stars
Case
Case material : Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter : 38.7 mm
Thickness : 7,4 mm
Lugs : Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal : Saphir crystal (1 800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Case back :Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Titanium plate with “microlight” decoration
Water-resistance : 3 ATM
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle :  Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

🔴Price: 79,250 EUR / US $ 90,000 💰

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Press release -- Geneva 2023
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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