Wednesday, September 30, 2020

Hermes – ARCEAU Pocket Aaaaargh!

 HermèsARCEAU Pocket Aaaaargh! Gold 48 Flying Tourbillon - Unique Piece

Leather craftsmanship meets Haute Horlogerie to create a unique pocket watch, featuring the T-Rex from the Aaaaargh! silk scarf designed by Alice Shirley

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The Arceau watch, created by Henri d’Origny in 1978, lends its classic yet distinctive round shape – with its asymmetrical stirrup-inspired lugs – to infinite expressions of Hermès creativity, style and expertise. Its timeless white gold silhouette stages an alliance between leather craftsmanship and Haute Horloger ie in a one-of-a-kind pocket watch.

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 Beating to the rhythm of the Manufacture H1924 minute-repeater and tourbillon movement, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! frames a refined white enamel dial, protected by a cover adorned with a tyrannosaurus composed of marquetry and leather mosaic.

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After the gruff bear of the Slim of Hermes Grrrrr! and the wolf howling in the moonlight of the Arceau Awooooo, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh! watch is joining the bestiary imagined by English artist Alice Shirley.

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On this model, the «king of the tyrant lizards» with half-open jaws and an attentive eye comes to life under the expert guidance of Hermès watchmakers, after a month of meticulous work using exclusive techniques developed in its leather workshops.

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The design of the tyrannosaurus, which appears to be peeking through a porthole, stands out against the cover and involves a combination of several demanding skills. The head and scales are made in leather mosaic: thousands of finely hand-cut multicoloured leather fragments are applied one by one to faithfully reproduce the original pattern.

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The domed eye of the dinosaur, visible on both sides of the cover, is made of cabochoncut Grand Feu enamel. Finally, the jaw and tongue are crafted in leather marquetry: fine tesserae are cut from various coloured leathers, previously thinned to just 0.5 mm, before being juxtaposed on the enamel base.

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Setting the final touch to this miniaturised leather artwork, a matt green alligator leather cord-strap is secured to the rectangular stirrup and accentuates the overall design.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  ARCEAU Pocket Aaaaargh!

One-of-a-kind model

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon
CASE
Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback
Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique”
Water resistance: 3 bar
DIAL
White enamel on a white gold base
COVER
“Aaaaargh” marquetry and leather mosaic motif.
Grand Feu enamel eye
LEATHER CORD-STRAP
Medium - green alligator leather


Limitation
Exclusive Unique Limited Edition 

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Press Release - 2020
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Hermès Horloger Press Relations
Katy Jolidon

katy.jolidon@montre-hermes.ch
+41 (0)32 366 71 00
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INTERNATIONAL HERMÈS PRESS OFFICE
Sophie Seibel-Traonouïl - 10-12, rue de la Ville-l’Évêque,
75008 Paris - Tel.: + 33 (0)1 40 17 47 89.
Fax: + 33 (0)1 48 10 17 88 
Photos: Claude Joray
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Tuesday, September 29, 2020

BREGUET – CLASSIQUE 5345 Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 46 Platinum

 BREGUETCLASSIQUE 5345 Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 46 Platinum - 2020

This new model blends mechanical virtuosity with aesthetic mastery: entirely exhibited, the movement reveals two tourbillons that set the whole plate in motion through a central differential.

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Each component is hand-finished, while the back of the movement is engraved with the “House on the Quai”, the Parisian building where Abraham-Louis Breguet fulfilled his life’s work.

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The new Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge model houses a monumental movement in the proportions of a watch. Working with very limited space, the Breguet Manufacture has built a complex and harmonious universe that seemingly defies the laws of physics.

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Like a delicately chased sculpture, the entire exposed mechanism pivots around its axis at the rate of one full turn every 12 hours. It is propelled by two independent tourbillons, which each complete a full rotation per minute. In this way, the interconnected regulating organs perform a double revolution, simultaneously driving the tourbillon bar: the signature hours hand.

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It is a remarkable display, featuring a number of components made of gold, as were those of  grand complication movements back in their day – a tradition that has now been all but lost; one that the House of Breguet endeavors to perpetuate, as it does its specialist artisan techniques.

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This watch is a stunning display of Breguet’s expert craftsmanship – in particular the engraving on the back, which depicts the house that Abraham-Louis Breguet acquired on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris.

 The Invention to Endure throughout the Centuries

Indeed, it was at this inspiring address, nestled between the artisans of the Ile de la Cité, that the master watchmaker invented the mechanism that would become globally renowned and endure throughout the centuries. At a time when timepieces were worn vertically in the waistcoat pocket, Breguet strove to devise a way of negating the effects of Earth’s gravity, which was impacting on the chronometric accuracy of the movement.

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Then the idea came to him to incorporate the balance wheel and spring as well as the escapement (lever and escape wheel) in a mobile carriage rotating on itself. The master devised the name tourbillon for this double rotation of the cage and its parts, in reference to the long-forgotten notion of a planetary system. Genius in principle and captivating in operation, the invention remains the preserve of the House of Breguet, conferring a truly special originality.

 Mechanical Ingenuity

The timekeeping parts of this Double Tourbillon 5345 are, incidentally, very similar technically to the original creation. The steel balance springs are endowed with the characteristic terminal curve, allowing for concentric development of the spring. It was a solution devised by the founder himself, which has since become known as the Breguet overcoil.

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Even now, the balance spring is still shaped by hand, while the different calibrations are also done manually, such as balancing the tourbillon cages. These carriages are the only ones in the current collection that feature a framework in black-polished steel – the highest degree of finishing in fine horology.

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The two mechanical hearts beat independently from one another, each driven by their own barrel. However, the two oscillating organs are coupled with a second pair of wheels, revolving in the central differential.

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 This double-entry mechanism is able to determine the average rate of the tourbillons, allowing for the oscillating plate to be set in motion at the  rate of one full rotation every 12 hours. As for the minutes indication, it is a classic hand in the center. The entire mechanism is equipped with a system to minimize play in the wheels, ensuring a perfectly precise display.

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This spectacular staging makes this caliber one of the most complex systems ever developed by the Breguet Manufacture. Its mobile nature, for example, forced the engineers to entirely review the manual winding mechanism, which now relies on independent wheel trains. One of the two barrels is equipped with a friction bridle, similar to those used on self-winding watches. 

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 This astute construction allows the spring to disengage once coiled, until the second barrel is fully wound. Lastly, the crown employs a dynamometric security system, which prevents excessive winding of the springs.

Artistic Craftsmanship

The expertise of the art of watchmaking is never without aesthetic virtuosity at Breguet. Presented for the first time in 2006, the Double Tourbillon is now liberated from the dial, revealing itself in all of its mechanical beauty. Stylised and rounded, the barrel bridges in steel take on the form of the letter B. All the components are meticulously straight-grained, chamfered, and even satin-brushed by hand.

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A true signature of the House, the hand-engraving on a rose engine (guilloché work) finds a new field of expression on the movement, replacing the traditional circular graining. Laid bare as it is, the caliber exposes the inner flank of the caseband, from which the hand-engraved Roman numerals stand out echoing in their design those of the sapphire hours chapter.

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Yet the unique character of this timepiece is fully revealed on its back. The treasures of mechanical ingenuity assembled for the movement leave in their wake timeless poetry. The timepiece is completed with an engraving, crafted by the artisans of the Manufacture, featuring the facade of the building occupied by Abraham-Louis Breguet from 1775 onward, at 39 Quai de l’Horloge, Paris.

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Etched into gold, the work abounds in such meticulous detail that through the windowpanes a glimpse may be caught of the wheels of the caliber. A window into two worlds of true excellence.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CLASSIQUE

Model:  CLASSIQUE Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge 46 Platinum

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

 Reference 5345PT/1S/7XU


Case

Round platinum case with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback.
Diameter 46 mm. Thickness: 16.8 mm.
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters).
Dial
Sapphire
Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
Hours chapter with Roman numerals.
Open-tipped Breguet minutes hand in blued steel.
Blued-steel hours hand extending along the bar supporting the two tourbillons.
Movement
Manually wound mechanical
numbered and signed Breguet. Caliber 588N.
Two tourbillons mounted on a revolving main plate hand-engraved on a rose engine.
The two regulating organs are coupled to a differential that determines the average rate.
Complete revolution of the main plate in 12 hours.
50-hour power reserve. 16½ lignes. 81 jewels. 738 components.
Breguet balance springs. Frequency 2.5 hertz.
Monometallic balance wheels with gold screws.
Adjusted in 6 positions.
On the reverse side of the movement, an engraving carried out by hand depicts the building on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris.

Strap
“Stone” strap, natural slate on rubber.
Triple folding clasp in platinum.



Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world

#Breguet
#breguetTradition
#Breguet Tourbillon
#breguet5345
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment


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Monday, September 28, 2020

Parmigiani Fleurier – TONDA GT Steel Silver Automatic

Parmigiani FleurierTONDA GT Steel Silver Automatic Limited Edition

 New Tonda GT Line
The manufacture reimagines its Tonda collection to create a sportier, everyday watch

Following the successful launch of its first ever Hijri calendar wristwatch, the Tonda 1950 Tourbillon Double Rainbow and the Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani Fleurier is proud to announce the new Tonda GT. The Maison’s dress watches have long been revered among collectors for their elegance and fine craftsmanship, the result of its in-house manufacturing prowess combined with Michel Parmigiani’s master watchmaking talent and commitment to excellence.  This commitment continues in this new introduction, a line designed to appeal to the modern gentleman looking for a watch he can wear on every occasion.

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Four distinct sporty, yet elegant designs will kick off the release of the Tonda GT in polished and satin-finished stainless steel or 18-ct rose gold, embodying Parmigiani’s years of expertise and design ethos following golden ratio parameters. The case shape is inspired by the Tonda Chronor watch, which was awarded the Chronograph Watch Prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017. Parmigiani Fleurier worked with watch designer, Dino Modolo, to reinterpret its design codes, resulting in a reimagined case with updated lugs and an integrated bracelet ergonomically designed for ultimate comfort. Its fluted bezel recalls another Parmigiani Fleurier icon- the Toric collection- and the dials are finished with traditional “clou triangulaire” guilloché. All watches are available on a polished and satin-finished bracelet or on a rubber strap with a motif that recalls the finishing on the dial.

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The Tondagraph GT Black is powered by the PF043 automatic caliber and combines two of watchmaking’s most useful complications- an annual calendar and a chronograph. This is an uncommon combination and once again Parmigiani Fleurier fills a void in the watchmaking world by presenting them together at a level of quality seldom rivaled, and yet, with an exceptional price.

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The dial displays a wealth of information and remains legible: it has delta-shaped hands with black luminescent coating indicating hours and minutes, a small second, two subdials for the chronograph function, and a big date aperture at 12 o’clock. To draw attention to the annual calendar function, the date and month are displayed in a vibrant orange color. This impressive watch is water resistant to 100m, has a screw-down crown, a 45-hour power reserve, and is finely finished with Côtes de Genève stripes visible through the open caseback. The Tondagraph GT Black is limited to 200 pieces.

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Three additional models will accompany this new launch, the Tonda GT Black, the Tonda GT Silver and the Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue. The beauty of the guilloché decoration shines through on these dials, which have a big date aperture at 12 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. 

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They are powered by the PF044 automatic movement, which is finely finished, has a power reserve of 45 hours, and is water resistant to 100m. The 18-ct rose-gold model is particularly stunning when paired with its sporty blue rubber strap matching the dial and the Tonda GT Steel easily transforms into a sportier watch when paired with its black rubber strap. 

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From classic to sporty, these watches allow today’s man to easily transition from a day full of activities to an elegant evening.  The Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue is limited to 150 pieces, while the steel models in black or silver are limited to 250 pieces each.

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This is yet another step forward for Parmigiani Fleurier as it continues to evolve and innovate,” says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier. “The new Tonda GT line, with its more casual shape and attractive price point, reflects current market needs and is, at the same time, distinctively Parmigiani.

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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

Taking its name from its founder, watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani, the fine watchmaking brand was founded in 1996 in Fleurier, in the Swiss valley of Val-de-Travers. With its own watchmaking centre ensuring its independence, the brand has both full control over the production process and unique creative freedom. For over twenty years, the Parmigiani Fleurier signature has resided within timepieces that command the utmost respect, in harmony with watchmaking traditions. They are the labour of a lifetime – that of Michel Parmigiani, the talented individuals who assist him, and the special relationship between the Manufacture and the masterpieces of the past, enabling it to invent a bold future.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  TONDA

REFERENCE pfc910-0000140-x03182 / -b00182

Gents

CASE
Polished and satin stainless steel
Dimensions: Ø 42 mm, thickness: 11.2 mm, crown: Ø 6 mm
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire, Back: sapphire
W.R. 100 meters
Back engraving: individual number, EDITION LIMITEE - 250
DIAL
Colour : Silver
Finishing: Guilloché “Clou triangulaire”
Indexes: Blue PVD plated appliques with blue luminescent coating 

HANDS Delta-shaped with blue luminescent coating
MOVEMENT
AUTOMATIC WINDING MOVEMENT 
Caliber PF044
Total dimensions 13 ¼''' Ø 30.0 mm, thickness: 5.3 mm
Decoration Côtes de Genève
Oscillatingweight 22-ct rose gold
Functions: hours, minutes, small second and big date
Power reserve 45 hours
Frequency 28’800 Vph (4Hz)
Jewels 33
Nb ofcomponents 274

BRACELET
Blue rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp


SPECIFICATION LIMITED EDITION - 250

RETAIL PRICE

13’500 CHF (rubber strap)
14’500 CHF (steel bracelet)


SHIPPINGDATE November 2020


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Press release - 2020
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Contact
Tel-  +41 32 862 66 30
TEXT MESSAGE / SMS:  +41 79 807 33 24
E-MAIL: PRESS@PARMIGIANI.COM
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Friday, September 25, 2020

ORIS – Big Crown ProPilot 57th Reno Air Races Edition

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ORISAVIATION Big Crown ProPilot 57th Reno Air Races Edition - 2020
Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 

 A new flight schedule

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The spectacular, daredevil Reno Air Races, held in the Nevada desert since 1964, may have been cancelled this year due to the global Covid-19 pandemic, but Oris, the event’s Official Timepiece and long-term partner has decided to continue the tradition of creating a limited-edition watch in support of the world’s fastest motor sport.

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We’re pleased to introduce the Oris 57th Reno Air Races Limited Edition, a grey PVD-coated version of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot with second-time zone and circular date window functions.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Only 1,000 pieces will be made. Here’s to the 2021 event!
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Collection: AVIATION

Model: Oris Big Crown 57th Reno Air Races Edition

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 

Ref. No. 01 798 7768 4284-Set

Limited to 1,000 pieces

Case
Material Multi-piece stainless steel case, grey PVD-coated Size 41.00 mm, 1.614 inches
Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coat-ing inside
Case back Stainless steel, grey PVD-coated, screwed, spe-cial engravings
Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown, grey PVD-coated
Water resistance 10 bar (100 metres)
Interhorn width 20 mm
Movement
Number Oris 798

Dimensions 25.60 mm, 11½ inches
Functions
Centre hands for hours, minutes, seconds and ad-ditional 24-hour time zone, circular date window, instantane-ous date, date and 24-hour corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding Automatic winding
Power reserve 42 hours
Dial
Design Black dial
Luminous material Hands and applied numerals with
Super-LumiNova®
Strap
Material/strap options Black textile strap with blue leather lining, grey PVD-coated stainless steel folding clasp

Limited Edition to 1,000 pieces


Retail
Availability September 2020

Swiss retail price CHF 2’650
Extras Special presentation BOX, certificate

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Press Release - 2020
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Thursday, September 24, 2020

OMEGA – Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 44


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OMEGASeamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 44 mm Titanium – Tantalum – Sedna™ Gold - 2020

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When tantalum made its OMEGA debut in 1993, it quickly earned a unique place in the Seamaster’s design history. This year, the lustrous material is making a stylish comeback.

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Its distinctive blue/grey tones offering a subtle contrast to the precious metals featured prominently on OMEGA’s latest dive watch.

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OMEGA’s 44 mm Master Chronometer is a Numbered Edition, made from grade 2 titanium, 18K Sedna™ gold and tantalum - found on the base of the bezel and the middle links of the bracelet.

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The 18K Sedna™ gold bezel ring features a laser-ablated diving scale, while the polished blue ceramic [ZrO2] dial sports laser-engraved waves, a date window at 6 o’clock, and subdial rings with touches of 18K Sedna™ gold. On the side of the case is an 18K Sedna™ gold plate engraved with the watch’s unique number.

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Turning the watch over reveals an OMEGA Seahorse, which has been laser-engraved and white lacquered on the sapphire crystal. Through the glass, there is a clear view of the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9900, certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).

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For ocean adventurers, each bracelet includes OMEGA’s patented extendable foldover rack-and-pusher with extra diver extension. The timepiece is water-resistant up to 30 bar (300 m / 1000 ft.) and offered inside a special presentation box in the style of a water-resistant chamber.

A closer look at the materials
Grade 2 Titanium

Discovered in 1794, titanium’s industrialised process only dates back to 1939. Although reasonably common, it remains an expensive metal due to the difficulty linked with its dissociation process from other terrestrial materials. Titanium alloys are light, extraordinarily corrosion resistant, biochemically inert and able to withstand extreme temperatures.

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Grade 2 titanium is in fact heat-treatable, which means it gains additional strength via the heat-treatment process, making it perfect for moving parts in challenging environments. OMEGA has made use of grade 2 titanium many times in its watchmaking history, on watches such as the Speedmaster X33 - and of course – earlier editions of the Seamaster Diver 300M.

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 Tantalum

Tantalum is a lustrous blue-grey metal that is more rare than gold, harder than steel, and highly corrosion-resistant. Its inertness makes it a valuable alternative to platinum. Dark, dense, pliable, and highly conductive of heat and electricity, it is particularly difficult to work with, adding to its rare use within the watch industry.

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Its name comes from an ancient story in Greek Mythology, in which Tantalus, forced to stand in knee-high water as a punishment, could not drink or reach the fruit above him. This mirrors the attributes of the metal, which cannot absorb acid when immersed. This resistance gives the metal an added robustness and attraction.
18K Sedna™ gold

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In its on-going desire to improve the quality of its products, OMEGA wanted to find a new rose/red 18K gold alloy that would be more resistant to discoloration than the standard 18K red gold used in watchmaking. In 2013, the brand reached its goal.

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The material dubbed 18 Sedna™ gold achieved a beautiful red colour and turned out to have an incredible resistance to discoloration.

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OMEGA’s own rose gold is an alloy blended from gold (at least 75%), copper for colour and palladium for stability. The result is a unique reddish tone that is warm and particularly long lasting. The unique 18K gold takes its name from Sedna, an orbiting dwarf planet described as one of the reddest in the solar system.

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The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Titanium Tantalum Sedna™ Gold model will be available in stores from November 2020. Approximate retail price is US $19,300/ £16,540/ 17545 €.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Speedmaster

Model:  Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 44 MM, 

Titanium – Tantalum – Sedna™ Gold

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Reference 210.60.44.51.03.001

Movement
Calibre: Omega 9900

Self-winding chronograph with column wheel and CoAxial escapement. Certified Master Chronometer, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. Silicon balance-spring, 2 barrels mounted in series, time zone function. Central hour, minute and chronograph seconds hands, small seconds hand, 12-hour and 60-minute recorders. Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.
Power reserve: 60 hours
Case
Titanium – Tantalum – Sedna™ Gold
Case Diameter: 44 mm
Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both sides
Unidirectional rotating bezel
Helium escape valve
Screw-in crown
Transparent case back
Water resistance: 30 bar (300 metres / 1000 feet)
Dial
Colour: Blue
Special features
Anti-magnetic
Master Chronometer Certified
Numbered edition
Bracelet
Titanium – Tantalum – Sedna™ Gold

Price: US $ 19,300 (excl. taxes)


All OMEGA timepieces have a 5-year warranty.

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Press releases - 2020
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